Electical stalls out while driving

1. **Ignition Control Module (ICM):** It's possible that the ICM within the distributor is faulty. This module plays a crucial role in controlling the ignition timing. If it fails, it can result in a lack of spark.

2. **Shutdown Relay:** The shutdown relay is responsible for controlling various systems, including the ignition system. If this relay is not functioning correctly, it can prevent spark.

You can test the ICM and the shutdown relay by following the manufacturer's diagnostic procedures or using a diagnostic tool if available. Additionally, check for any stored error codes in the vehicle's computer, as this may provide clues about the issue.

Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components in your vehicle, and if you're unsure about your diagnostic skills, it's advisable to consult a professional mechanic for a more accurate diagnosis and repair.

• Burglar alarms - probably the most common problem now. Often mis-diagnosed ... example (the symptoms often vary): I have a 96 Dodge Intrepid and it would start then just shut off... The lights would strobe and there was a ticking noise coming from somewhere around the fuse panel (inside the car)... Almost cost me $300 for a new fuel pump as that is what I was told was the "most likely culprit"... Turned out to be the security and a simple lock and unlocking of the door a few times totally fixed the problem... (Terra Sears)
• The Hall Effect sensor - this can fail and not set an error code. However, if the computer gets no data from the Hall Effect sensor, it will assume that the engine is not turning, and will not provide any fuel. This is an inexpensive gadget that sits underneath the rotor, in the distributor cap, on cars without distributorless ignition (so this doesn't apply to cars made after about 1996). A good first step and not hard to replace, even for beginners.
  • In Steve Meade's case, in cold weather, the engine would run for about a minute, then die - each time it was started. Using the gas worked to keep it running until it ran warm. There were no codes set. In his case, he needed a new pickup rotor - part of the distributor ($113).
  • The Auto Shutdown Relay (ASD) - actually, this rarely breaks, but when it does, the engine stays off. One purpose of the auto shutdown relay is to avoid "dieselling." It kills all fuel delivery and spark. The ASD can be triggered by a broken wire or short in another place -e.g. the fuel pump.
  • The MAP sensor - another frequent cause of stalling or non-starting. This measures the air pressure in the manifold. It is usually mounted on a fender, costs around $25, and is easy to replace. You can test it - if your car won't start, just unplug the electrical connection from the MAP sensor. If it starts, replace the sensor. MAP sensor details. (It may act as though the fuel pump is not working properly - starting, then quickly dying).
  • There is a relay between the computer (PCM) and coil, at least on the 2.2/2.5 TBI, that costs about $12. If it fails, mechanics may try replacing the computer (thanks, Ronald Knauf).
  • ...and, of course, the starter relay - often this goes and it is misdiagnosed as the starter itself, the computer, etc. (thanks again, Ronald Knauf).
  • Fusible links: John Auto Tech wrote, "try checking the fuseable links located by the drivers side strut tower. Give each one a [gentle] tug to see if one stretches like a rubber band."
  • Loose or dirty computer or battery connections - surprisingly common! Or (on vintage cars) check the hot wire going into the firewall plug... on the other side the wire goes to the fuse box then to the dash- when it goes to the dash it goes to the alt meter... it is a simple fix and one that should be checked. (It is also a good place for a fire - you've got loose hot wires and lots of loose insulation)
  • The idle speed motor - this can, for example, cause stalling when the engine is cold, but not when hot. If you replace the idle air control motor (IAC), also clean the throttle body and reset the computer (you can just disconnect the battery for a few minutes). This problem can also affect newer cars such as the Neon which have no distributor.
  • Plugged exhaust (e.g. catalytic converter). F.J. MacFarlane wrote about this, noting that most or all US 2.2 carburted engines had two converters in series.
  • Clogged fuel filter or fuel line - this can be under the hood or in the tank. Similar symptoms can be caused by a weak fuel pump. There are, incidentally, two types of fuel pressure test: one which tests an instant of pressure, and a more sustained test. The latter can often solve stumble and stall problems that occur at highway speeds or under acceleration.
  • The speed (distance) sensor - see Ed Hennessy's notes below.
  • Spark plug wires - Rosegate noted that a problem with missing cylinders was resolved by changing the wires. A dealer failed to solve the problem, charging $130 apparently to change a single wire. You can do this yourself in ten minutes; you can get very high quality wires for $40 (four cylinders).
  • The oxygen sensor - somewhat expensive to replace (they cost about $40-60 just for the part), but since the oxygen sensor is the thing that tells the engine whether it's feeding too much or too little fuel, it's pretty important. The oxygen sensor can be damaged by bad gas or excess pollution from another bad sensor or part. Bad oxygen sensors can cause high idling, rough idling, stalling, lack of power, and poor fuel economy, not to mention excessive pollution. "An O2 sensor actually generates voltage and when active, varies between .5 and 1.0 V. which is rich/lean. It's working ok if you see a wave between these numbers. If you see one steady reading the sensor is likely bad. Don't forget the sensor must be hot to stard working." - Wayne Moschella
  • Fuel line cracks - it happens, and they can be hard to find. Turbo engines should be periodically and carefully inspected for leaking fuel lines, due to their higher fuel pressures. Small, hard to see fuel line cracks can cause stalling and non-starting. Check not just the main fuel line but also delivery lines that feed individual injectors (thanks, R. Jake Carr).
  • Low fuel pressure - applies only to 1988-90 models (see below).
  • Jim Zellmer wrote: a rubber elbow coming out of the rear intake manifold [may have a] crack that is not readily visible from the front of the car. The crack would open an cause a vaccuum leak big enough to shut down the engine.

For non-fuel injected cars, most stalling issues can be traced to the carburetor or timing settings. A good tune-up with high quality wires, rotor, and distributor cap can often permanently solve stalling. For other ideas, visit Valiant Varieties.

Original is at Stalling repair tips for all cars, especially Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth http://www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html#ixzz2ckkWBnpL
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The ASD relay supplies battery voltage (12+ volts) to the fuel injectors and ignition coil(s). With certain emissions packages it also supplies 12-volts to the oxygen sensor heating elements. The Fuel Pump Relay is a separate relay controlled by the ASD relay input to the PCM. Fuse #12 (10amp) provides 12 volts to the coil side of both the relays and the ignition switch. Fuse #6 (30 amps) supplies 12 volts to the output side of the relay. Fuse #16 (15 amp) from the relay output to the Oxygen Sensors and Fuse #26 (15 amp) relay output to the PCM. Fuse #24 (20 amp) is Fuel pump relay output to fuel pump. Fuse #19 (10 amp) supplies 12 volts direct to the PCM.
look for burned or melted wires in the offending circuit.
sounds like you wiggled a wire while installing new relay.

In the inside of the distributor there's a sensor called the Hall Effect sensor. This particular sensor will definitely cause your engine to stall for no apparenty reason especially at low rpm. Is your timing belt due to be replaced? If the timing belt is getting worn, it can stretch to the point of retarding the camshaft to the point of it stalling as well. You'll see a drop in your fuel economy as well and it won't be real spunky anymore.

Check the Auto shutdown relay and or the Sensor on the bell housing Crankshaft position sensor [on the passenger side up top] along with the sensor inside distributor.
The auto shutdown relay is in the black box next to the battery.

could be problem wires on the crank/cam position sensors
check connections and wire conditions
have the fault codes read as well to check for reported faults

1989 Chrysler 2.5 L Turbo has a duel hall effect pick-up in the distributor. It is possible that the pick-up is not working. A "start and stall" indicates that this may be the problem.
Another problem may be the fuel system. Check fuel pressure with key on... should be 40-50 psi on multi-port. 30-40 on TBI
PS If the auto shutdown relay quit then you would not get a start at all. PSS oil pressure will cause a similer problem

distributor, or distributor cap it sure is an electrical problem

TRY THE THROTTLE BODY POS SEN AND THE COMP

the auto shut down relay is not like a fuse that can shut the engine off the name it has actually has not much to do with its function.. the relay is controlled by the computer .. its main function is to stop run-on and turns off o2 heaters power to coil and injectors if you had the key in the run position and engine not running your battery would dies faster than a drive in movie.. but anyway if your stalling and think its the relay failing just swap it with another one that looks the same from the PDC.. what you may have is a bad fuel pump or even a crank sensor have you had it scanned for codes? sometimes but not always you may have a code for lean upstream o2 if the pump is failing but not always.. and for the crank sensor you may have a crank shaft position sensor performance or cam/crank sensor code ..