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Anonymous Posted on Mar 28, 2013

My gmc 4.3 stalls when warm and wont start without ether. then it runs fine

When it warms up it will stall at a light and there is no gas from the injectors. if i give it a shot of ether, it starts and runs fine unless i slow down again. replaced the fuel pump and filter. i hear the pump run but no fuel when it stalls. this happens when warmed up . after 40 minutes or so it will start just fine.

  • Anonymous Apr 01, 2013

    here is more info. the motor runs great from cold to about 1/2 hour or till warm. At a stop light or off the highway ramp it will shudder and stall when stopped. The motor will not start at all. I checked the injectors (4.3 throttle body GMC 1991 sierra 185K miles) and there is no gas. IF i give it a shot of ether it will fire and run just fine till I stop again. If the engine rests about 3/4 hour or till cool it runs great till it gets warm again. if it was fuel, I think it would not run after a shot of ether. also same for injectors warming up and failing. I have replaced the fuel pump, filter, Idle control valve, coil, temp sensor and thermostat as well as other tune up things like the rotor and cap. The Ignition control module tests fine. When it wont start, it IS getting spark. the no gas till ether thing has me stymied. Maybe its possessed? Thanks for any help.

  • Anonymous Apr 01, 2013

    The new fuel pump runs ok. X-mission fluids are ok. new idle control valve.-

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  • Posted on Apr 09, 2013
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I had the exact problem with my 1993 chevy c1500. I found that the IAC was sticking so the engine would die at idle after warming up and the ignition module was pulsing the ECM intermittently after the engine warmed up so the fuel pump wasn't being turned on after the engine died....I replaced the ignition module and the IAC valve and all is good. I don't know if testing the ignition module reveals that it isn't sending pulses to the ECM.

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Jan 20, 2010

SOURCE: 1994 GMC Jimmy engine runs rough when cold; smooths out when warm

you need to have the codes checked to know what direction to start repairs,Autozone does this for free

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ZJLimited

ZJ Limited

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  • Posted on Aug 17, 2010

SOURCE: I replaced the fuel filter

A sticky/stuck/clogged EGR valve will cause these kinds of problems but I can't completely explain all of the symptoms by this theory. It's easy enough to test...

Disconnect and plug the vacuum hose leading the the valve and see if things get better. You'll feel like you have less power but there should be no abrupt changes in power as you go from idle to wide open throttle.

After 125,000 Miles it would be completely reasonable to replace it as a precaution because they do get crusty and clogged.


Other most of the time this is caused bt fault with the Distributor; here few test to do it; tests procedures:
1. Remove the distributor cap and disconnect the pick up coil wires from the back of the ignition module.
2. Place a voltmeter set on the AC scale across the two pick up coil wires and crank the engine.
3. The pick up coil should produce at least 0.7 volts AC.

Potential Causes:
Distributor Shaft
Pick-Up Coil

Tech Tips: If voltage is less than 0.7 volts AC cranking, replace the distributor shaft and pick up coil together.

Also, I suggest check out the voltage to the TPS sensor. The EGR may be clogged due to a failed O2 sensor.

Hope helps.

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