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todd langkand Posted on Sep 12, 2017
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98 continential the abs pump runs when on dry pavement and the brake pedal surges like a warped rotor but they are new and the taction control also makes noise on dry pavment. if i pull the fuse all noises go away and the brakes work good and i replaced both wheel sensors up front, when scanned all sensors are working. if you have any ideas that would be a great help.

  • stephen peirce Oct 31, 2019

    Also worn wheel bearings in the hubs will cause movement these systems are very sensitive to uneven movement ok start investigating from front to back you can go to rockauto.Com for some stuff to see what the parts look like if your not sure any broken bushings will activate the system so look for that especially you have a lot of work to do now and I just came home from a 12 hour shift tonight I'm taking my wife out so as Arnold says I'LL BE BACK! POST BACK FRIDAY NIGHT IF NEEDED

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stephen peirce

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  • Lincoln Master 1,882 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 31, 2019
stephen peirce
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You must check your bushings on the rear shocks/struts on top and on the bottom any one if severely worn will cause the anti lock brake module to run and the traction control because it is sensing a slight movement both are controlled by the abs module for the system also the stabilizer links can cause a weight shift in the wheels letting a sensor activate you also have rear spindle bushings and wheel hubs that have sensor rings on the hubs if the spindle bushings are worn this allows it to twist and uneven traction is the result in the front you have strut rod bushings on each side that connect to the control arms again if worn it's allowing movement triggering the traction /abs sensors and also a worn cv axle will slip slightly activating the system start with the cheapest bushings and links and strut arm and spindle bushings and shock/strut bushings and mounts any movement will activate the system ok please post back with progress you made write down everything you've done so far and I will get back to you also tire treads that are different will cause uneven traction I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 years experience in all phases of the automobiles mechanics and I will get you to the problem cause obviously I'm not there so I need you to communicate with me precisely what you have done so far because I can't check the vehicle myself good luck stephen

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  • Expert 65 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 24, 2019
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Is this a two or four wheel ABS system?
You still have a sensor issue. Perhaps too much brake dust in an ABS sensor mounting hole.

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5 Related Answers

studio500

Marc Buck

  • 36 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 17, 2009

SOURCE: brake hissing noise

Sounds like it could well be the brake servo unit.

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jmgldsmth

Jim Goldsmith

  • 2005 Answers
  • Posted on May 04, 2009

SOURCE: speedometer,mileage does'nt work,abs,traction,brake lights r on

no it does not; this is a massive short in the electrical system and, requires the services of an auto electrician like myself.
take the car in to an ASE certified auto electrical shop and, stop spending money on temporary fixes
the technicians can read the schematics and, fix your car right

wade dunlap

  • 101 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 02, 2009

SOURCE: BRAKE NOISE

Ive never heard of such a thing. Any vehicle ive ever driven the booster does not make that noise.. i dont know how to help you, but im pretty sure its not the booster, dont waste your money there

Anonymous

  • 594 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2009

SOURCE: abs brake light on

actually you may not need to replace any parts. from what you are explaining on the vehicle you have a air lock in your brake lines. try and bleed the brakes again starting from the rear passenger than the drivers passenger than the passengers front and last the drivers front. than disconnect the negative battery cable for about 5 min to reset the lights and see what happens. please let me know if you need more assistance with this problem.
please do not forget to rate and comment about your expereince with fixya today.

fordexpert

  • 5692 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 11, 2010

SOURCE: 1988 Lincoln Mark VII, Bill

I have not heard of an ABS causing these problems. Usually, a loss of pressure is a hole in a brakeline or a bad master cylinder.

The first brakelines to leak on my 1988 Bill Blass where those going under the engine. Check in the frame where the lines are routed from the ABS to the front brakes.

I use a Vacuum Handpump Bleeder. As long as there is fluid in the Master, you should eliminate the air. If you have a leak when you draw down each wheel you may hear a whistling, deflating ballonlike sound of the air draw. My handpump has a gauge which will show a pressure drop.

Or you can go the other direction and disconnect the ABS lines to the wheels. When you draw the vacuum from the closed Calipers, there should be little air in the lines. However, a hole in the line will continue to drop the draw from that particular wheel Caliper. This would prove you have an opening in the line.

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ABS engages without braking

Check all wheel sensors for broken wires, loose connectors or position of sensors in their mounting brackets.
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2007 GMC Canyon ABS Fault - Originally ABS Fault started when making a sharp right turn. (ABS Fault light only). Stopping and restarting would clear 'fault' until next hard right. Later, occasional metal...

id check your caliper to see if the piston is compressing all the way if not check your fluid it should be clean not brown or if you have been through large amounts of water if it has gotten into the brake system and check your bleeder valve to check if it has rotted or come lose or if you have a break in the lines or air, most likely your caliper is failing to compress.
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Brake pedal vibrates when pressed somethimes when turning and abs light is on 98 expedition.

possibly front brake rotors are warped,might be able to machine rotors or maybe have to replace them,
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We change the front roter and now the brake pettle pumps when i brake

Pumps when you Brake? Do you mean you have to pump it to get it to brake or it surges the brake pedal? When the rotor was changed, most likely you had to compress the Caliper to get it on and may have changed the pads while you were there. If that is the case then sometimes the seals in the Caliper will roll instead of sliding back properly. If this is the case and you have to pump the brakes because they are spongey then you will need to replace the caliper. If the brake pedal is surging when you apply the brake (which would also be felt in the steering wheel then the new rotor was either incorrectly installed or is warped.

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Left front abs brake locking up on dry pavement and pedal goes to floor, also making a grinding noise almost like wheel rubbing on wheel well but its not. i have new brakes and rotors put on 2 months ago...

Hi,

You may have a problem with your abs pump. When the pump malfunctions, it causes the car to do what you are experiencing.


Hope that helps.

G
10helpful
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Why is my brake pedal vibrating ? I had my brakes fixed and have new tires so what else could be causing the vibration ?

Two possible causes to the pulsing. Lets start with the least expensive first. Warped Rotors. Brake rotors/discs get extremely heated during braking and if you drive in the rain or drive through some standing water at the right time, the Heat and Cool cycle of the braking and then quenching by the water can cause the metal to warp. Even a slight warp will cause some vibration in the front end and a pulsing in the pedal. If the rotors havent been turned during the brake job or replaced I would look here first. The only way to determine is if the wheel is taken off and rotor visibly inspected. Second and most costly is the ABS Control module. Best way to explain is in a small box under your car in the middle by the drivers car door are 6 little plungers... to visualize think suction cups arranged like a 6 pack of coke. When you press your brake peddle in an ABS car these plunger open and close valves to in effect pump your brakes very very rapidly. ABS systems took the old 1970's pump the brakes and automated it. That helped prevent skids when people slammed on brakes during wet weather or accidents. They are controlled by a computer unit called a Control Module (Kelsey ABS Control for GM vehicles) when this starts to go bad you get the pulse in your pedal as the ABS system actuates improperly. Good news is even if the ABS controller goes out you WILL still have brakes, just not ABS brakes. Now lets get to cost. A rotor for your car depending on quality and type runs from 25 to 85 dollars (higher price is for more of a racing/speed type set up with frequent braking not everyday driving.. they are slotted and drilled to dissipate heat faster) Labor at a local mechanic to replace is going to be about $80. The ABS Controller module for your car runs from $745 up to $1100 dollars and the replacement cost is going to be about $200 for labor.
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Clattering out of left front on braking

pedal goes to floor .... did you change the calipers.... sounds like air in the system
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Abs sensor

No, the pulsing is caused by warped rotors. Look at the inside part of each wheel to see if you're loosing brake fluid. If everything is dry, try bleeding the brakes and check you brake fluid level. If it still does it, remove the vacuum hose from the engine that goes to the brake booster and plug it. The pedal should be very solid. If it bleeds off still, replace the brake booster.
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