Brake dragging After i changed the rear shoe and calibrated, after a while, the breakes self adjust so it gets too tight and start dragging and getting hot. I have to be loosing them with frecuency.It looks that the hand breake adjusting level dos not has a limit. Avery time i pull the hand breake, the level turns the adjusting star and does not have limit but the drum. Do you have any recomendation?

dreamt about this the other night,thought about it afterwards i didnt tell the guy to check the wheel cylinders,so intent was i on explaining my bodgy fix ,which it is but it does work.Well anyway heres what a right old bodger like myself would do ?one who doesnt like spending un necessary cash.first check drum on the outside lip and check for a ridge,if it has one then grind down with 4inch angle grinder so drum will fit over shoes without leaving gap between shoe and drum,next ask er indoors nicely to sit in car whilst you put two nice big screwdrives between shoes and lip on backplate the push brake pedal down slowly and feel the force and movement excerted on each shoe,is piston coming out of cylinder ???then release pressure on brake and see if pistons go back in with only spring pressure.if they dont then lightly clamp flexible brake pipe with mulgrips and remove pistons and clean and lightly rub inside of cylinder bore with some fine wet and dry with a smear of oil on it then rebuild cylinders.now offer up drum over shoes and with a wiggle try to determine how much you need to bring adjusters up till drum just turns nicely with a slight sound of the shoes rubbing.then tap with hammer and spin again as tap with hammer will centralise shoes and bit more taking up can be done.Now remember to slacken off handbrake cable before you start,now do other side then re adjust handbrake too the regulation three notches ,then check wheels can still turn.if brake are still overjusting check handbrake cable incase thats sticking and seizing up as well.If your er indoors will not help, you are welcome to mine free of charge dreamt about this the other night,thought about it afterwards i didnt tell the guy to check the wheel cylinders,so intent was i on explaining my bodgy fix ,which it is but it does work.Well anyway heres what a right old bodger like myself would do ?one who doesnt like spending un necessary cash.first check drum on the outside lip and check for a ridge,if it has one then grind down with 4inch angle grinder so drum will fit over shoes without leaving gap between shoe and drum,next ask er indoors nicely to sit in car whilst you put two nice big screwdrives between shoes and lip on backplate the push brake pedal down slowly and feel the force and movement excerted on each shoe,is piston coming out of cylinder ???then release pressure on brake and see if pistons go back in with only spring pressure.if they dont then lightly clamp flexible brake pipe with mulgrips and remove pistons and clean and lightly rub inside of cylinder bore with some fine wet and dry with a smear of oil on it then rebuild cylinders.now offer up drum over shoes and with a wiggle try to determine how much you need to bring adjusters up till drum just turns nicely with a slight sound of the shoes rubbing.then tap with hammer and spin again as tap with hammer will centralise shoes and bit more taking up can be done.Now remember to slacken off handbrake cable before you start,now do other side then re adjust handbrake too the regulation three notches ,then check wheels can still turn.if brake are still overjusting check handbrake cable incase thats sticking and seizing up as well.If your er indoors will not help, you are welcome to mine free of charge