Just had the engine replaced, the truck ran perfectly, no dummy lights; however, the transmission oil cooler lines had a leak, so I replaced them today. While replacing the lines which took all day, the batter in the truck drained and wouldn't start once we were finished. Went to jump the truck, noticed a poor battery terminal connection, fixed it, hooked it all back up, jumped the truck, started fine, check gauge light came on, and the truck would no longer idle on it's own, I had to give the truck gas or it would stall, any ideas, I'll be back at the beast tommorow, love my truck, lol
The code will lead u to where the problem is.
Get an OBD reader and see what it says.
SOURCE: 2002 Toyota Tundra Stalls
Disconnect the battery and leave disconnected for a while before reconnecting. This will clear the computer values. Jump starting is bad for any vehicle. My 02 with 100k idles really smooth after replacing the battery recently, it was rough before disconnecting the battery. The computer is suppose to have learn mode so drive it for a while.
SOURCE: Check engine light
A multi misfire may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wires, Faulty coil (pack), Faulty oxygen sensor(s), Faulty fuel injector(s), Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages, Faulty camshaft position sensor, Defective computer.
The engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wire, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Good luck and hope this information helps, keep me posted, be glad to help you get the truck running 100% again. Not sure if your running a K&N air filter, and if you are there may be a flim of oil on the MAF sensor that is making you run lean. You may want to spray down the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner.
SOURCE: 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 - gauges don't work
check the engine to body ground strap. located rear top of engine screwed to firewall Remove,clean, and resecure.
SOURCE: Check gauge light came on in my 1999 dodge
Charge your battery to full charge, next if you have a test light hook up the negative cable to the battery then with the test light touch one end to the positive battery cable and one to the positive post, is the light on? if yes is it bright? if yes Check your glove box and remove the glove box light check the light again, is it still bright? then check the rear cargo lamp and see if it's on if not, remove the bulb anyway and check the light one more time. if the light is still bright disconnect the light from the positive cable and the battery and then disconnect the positive wire to the alternator once it is disconnected do the light test again. Hook light to post and to the positive cable, is the light still bright? if no It's the alternator diode trio regulator Bridge, if it's still bright hook up the alternator wire again and then with the hood up and the hood light disconnected or the bulb pulled, locate the fuse panel and remove one fuse at a time, while you watch the light be sure to have the bulb out of the dome light so it does not give you a false reading. Now pull one fuse at a time if the light goes out thats where you have a problem on that circuit, on the fuse panel lid it will have it marked as what it is you can let me know what circuit it is and I can tell you how to check that circuit or if you prefer you can go to http://www.alldatadiy.com and buy a subscription for your car and it will have all the test and wiring information you want.
If you find the alternator is the culprit it could even be the brushes have fallen out one side or the other and is shorting if the battery is fully charged take it to auto zone and they can test the alternator output, if it does not put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts and 60 or 90 amps and 900 RPMS you know the alternator is bad just buy a replacement because rebuilding your alternator would cost as much buying a new or rebuilt alternator that has had everything done to it.
Now for the check engine light while your at auto zone you can have them pull the codes for your computer and that will help give you an ideal if the two problems are related. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts the check engine light will come on because the computer is detecting low voltage if you run it on low voltage for very long you may burn out the computer. Hope this helps and thanks for using fix-ya
Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time and all the great advise. I changed the alt. and have had no problems thus far. "
SOURCE: o2 lincoln ls check engine
You have two pumps,I guess you know that ,if you already did one. Did you check fuel pressure at the rail and check out the electronic pressure regulator? What codes are coming up and do they stay set?
Testimonial: "when i saw expert service i kinda laughed just another rip off but the guy knew his stuff very helpfull "
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