20 Most Recent 2003 Toyota ECHO - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Disconnect the battery, remove the lower engine plastic cover, remove the drive belt by rotating the auto tensioner toward the front to release tension and pull the belt out of the way, remove the gray rubber cap on the alternator then the 10mm nut and the wire, disconnect the electrical connector on the back of the alternator and remove the two mounting bolts on the alternator it can then be pulled out.

Hello Bonnie Jean, I'm not really certain on that one, but know where you can get the answer - a couple places:One - Your auto dealer PARTS Dept -- (NOT service Dept), they can pull it up for you quickly. If you have problem there, try your local library for a haynes or chiltons repair manual for your year, make model - you can also take it out for free for a term. Otherwise for around $20 bucks you can find it at your local auto parts store. Either Way - Be Sure To Call Ahead to check on availability!Best regards,Ck

Find your oil cap, the top row of spark plugs will be next to it. The coolant sensor is right next to the fourth spark plug, counting from left to right. All you do is unscrew the sensor, and screw the new one back in. Be sure not to screw the new sensor in too tight!!! Look at the diagram for clarification.

The engine light will come on BECAUSE the car has not started. In fact, if you turn your key (without starting) to the on position.... your engine light should come on. It just does. It does sound like you need a new starter though. Once they start dying, they work intermittently.

this obd2 trouble code table can help you understand the meaning of code.
and for p0441, you can try:
Repair damaged EVAP lines or canister.

Repair open or short in voltage feed circuit to Purge Solenoid.

Repair open in PCM purge command circuit.

Replace purge Solenoid.

Replace vacuum switch.

Repair restriction in Evap line or canister or soleniod.

Repair resistance in purge connector.

Replace PCM.

for p0442

Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the codes, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back.

Otherwise, replace the gas cap, or

Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses.

If it has a carburator. Take the air cleaner off and pour a very small amount of gas into the top of the carburator. Like about a teaspoon's worth. If its fuel injected I have no answer for you.

Because there's short circuit in its wiring.

Ok if your air conditioning system has lost the freon leak and the compressor does not start even if you have well I recommend the fuses check if you have full charge of freon in the system and then wanted another cause. Thanks

pull the tail lamps and replace them.
Sounds like there is a broken filliment floating around in the bulb and shorting to ground blowing the fuse.

I assume that the 7.5 amp fuse blew again, yes? If so, it looks like you may have a locked up A/C compresser, or too much freon in the system (if somebody tried to add some to make the A/C come on). If the compressor is locking up, the engine will turn slow, at least until the drive belt or the fuse fails.

you will need a oxygen sensor socket with a 3/8 drive, or 1/2 " drive ratchet, and sometimes you might need to use a 1/2 " breaker bar, to loosen the sensors, once you locate the sensor, you will have to remove the wire connection, and then use your choice of the above needed tools to remove the sensor, or sensors, some of these are not easy to get too, and some are stiff too remove. hope that this information has helped you.

should done that at 80k to 100k.... missed.oops

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if the engine runs rough after spark plug replacement,you may have a clogged fuel injector perhaps. i would suggest that you purchase lucas fuel injector cleaner and add it to your gas. you may have also just bought some bad gas. if you suspect that, just add 1 bottle of clear rubbing alcohol{not green} clear rubbing alcohol to your gas tank.this will dry up any water thats in your fuel.it will not affect the engine at all. as for your head gasket,its something you cannot predict any mileage on,but you can prevent it by not letting your engine overheat. never run your engine hot. always keep your collant full.if you suspect a blown head gasket, here are some signs of a blown head gasket. oil in the coolant,coolant mixed in your engine oil{when you pull the engine dipstick out,it appears muddy looking,coolant coming out of your exhaust pipe.these are quite a few examples of a blown head gasket. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

Try checking the fuse. It should be labeled fuse. It will be in one of the fuse boxes. If the fuse don't work, you probably have a loose wire or perhaps a bad ground. All ground wires are black. You will have to check the wiring circuit to the horn. You will need a voltage meter to test the wires, maybe a wiring schematic would be better. Check each wire and find the one that has low or no current. Change the wire and solve the problem. The circuit is inside the steering column. If you have a question, let me know. I am here to help. Thank you for choosing FixYa.

The reason your Check Engine light is not on is because sometimes computers are not as smart as people give them credit for. The computer can only monitor what it is programmed to monitor. Then, for everything it monitors, there has to be an electrical circuit for them to monitor it with. Half of the time, the system that is designed to monitor the system and warn of impending failure, is the very thing that is causing the system to fail. This happens all the time, and people think that we auto technicians are supposed to plug in the "magic box" and it will tell us exactly what is wrong and which parts to replace. I really wish it worked that way, but unfortunately, it NEVER does.

There are several things that can cause your engine to stall like that. The most common thing would be a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor. Some diagnostic testing should turn up the problem if the engine is stalling on a regular basis. If it only happens intermittently, then it can be difficult to track down, especially if there are no fault codes stored in the engine computer. There also could be fault codes stored that may lead a service technician to the problem even if the Check Engine light is not on. These codes are called "passive" or "pending" codes. They do not have the capability of turning the Check Engine light on, or it may have to fail a given number of times before the Check Engine light will come on. (Sometimes. they have to have 3 or 4 CONSECUTIVE failures before they will turn the light on, meaning that if it fails this time you drive your car, then it does not fail the next time you drive your car, but it fails again on the third trip, there is still no light.) Then there are times when there is obviously something seriously wrong (happens every trip) and there are no fault codes present....trust me, happens all the time.

You are finding out the only thing that is for certain when it comes to cars...They never break when you don't need them.