Top 20 1995 Toyota Previa - Page 4 Questions & Answers

if the lights on the dash are also lit. The problem is not with the radio it is with the multifunction switch Turn/light switch try to remove the fuse for the dash lights

Sometime the switch is inside the door, under/inside the rubber cushion( seen it somewhere once). Obvioulsy the door is not properly shut. Have you tried a good slam shut. Here's another thing to look for. Check the wiring on the side door. Simetime they get hard and cut when bent. Happen to my Honda civic once. You could also be looking @ the wrong door or switch is left on @ all time from lite switch. Remove the bulbs if its such a big problem.

Try this site: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=85
It should have everything you need to know about the Previa. Hope this helps!(RATE IF USEFUL)

CHECK YOUR TIMING BELT

bad transmission

Toyota commonly mounted their coolant sensors in 2 places; on the back of the radiator or in the thermostat housing. Look on the back of your radiator first; It may be difficult to see but look for a set of wires pointing towards the motor. If this doesn't show it, then follow the upper radiator hose towards the motor; where the hose mounts into a metal body should be the thermostat housing and the sensor may be mounted in that.

This is an ugly job, and very easy to break hard to get parts. Take it to a qualified shop.

RED not enough oil pressure.
ORANGE low on oil, need to add some.

generally 30 psi , but the tyre spec manufact are write on tyre side

If you never over heated the engine then it cannot be the pistons if you did you might need to get your engine rebuilt or it could just be you need to adjust your lifters which are located inside the valve cover were you add oil.

Hi, you have to take the screw out of the oil pan and let it drain... The oil pan in on the underside of the vehicle about middleways back toward the back of the vehicle.

The oil filter is also accessable from under the vehicle, but it's a tight squeeze with out one of those nifty wrenches. After it drains, change the filter, put the screw back in.

You probably know the access panel for the oil is under the driver's seat, then pour your oil in. It will take 5 quarts of oil.
Take care

You have to take the screw out of the oil pan and let it drain... The oil pan in on the underside of the vehicle about middleways back toward the back of the vehicle.

The oil filter is also accessable from under the vehicle, but it's a tight squeeze with out one of those nifty wrenches. After it drains, change the filter, put the screw back in.

You probably know the access panel for the oil is under the driver's seat, then pour your oil in. It will take 5 quarts of oil.

hi soundslike the cooling temperature switch is bad its located by the thurmostat houseing its a 2 pin sending unit that tells the pcm how hot your engine is any parts store will have it hope this helped don

A few things might cause this so lets gets some facts from you first. I will give you a few things to try.

1. Does the noise kinda fade when you apply the brake?
1.b If so..Its time for a brake job.

2. Look and feel all the way around the rear tires for an obstacle.
2.b If something is felt that's you rub.

3. Grab the rear tires and the top. Put your hands at 10 and 2 like you would hold the steering wheel. With force shake the tire in and out, if slop is felt...rear wheel bearings might be the issue.

This should point you in the right direction. Please comment back if further assistance is needed. Hope this helped :)

why,if the door has dropped then all you need do is put a 6ft piece of 3x3 under the open door and lift until square to opening.....thats how we do it in the bodyshop,and charge for it.....

You could be out of time, have bent valves, bad pistons, or one of a number of problems. You have to start out with is the cam and crank in time and go from there. You must remember to start at the basics and procede one step at a time and don't skip anything. Usually you'll find that the cause is looking right at you. Once you know the cause then you can plan your repair route.

Yes you can but the parts are dealer only. It is a kit to replace that and the assembly that attaches on the inside.

Between the wiper arms and the wiper motor are links which attach to to motor and have studs which the wiper arms are pressed onto. You can very aesily check the studs to see if they are stripped out. The arms have machined teeth that grip the stud. At the lower part of the wiper arm where it is pressed onto the stud is a tang that will swing outward. When it is outward the wiper arm can be pulled off the stud. After removing it the teeth on the stud should be uniform and clean throughout. If mushed down they are stripped out. Before you even try to remove the arms you can pull on the wipers arms to see if they are stripped. They bwill move as if the wipers are on. If they are tight and secure the bell crank at the wiper motors shaft may have fell off or id stripped out. That will have to be work on by a professional since this job is tricky to do

to check the brakes you can look through the wheel to see the pad thickness(1/8th min)then run you finger over the disc(rotor)to make sure you don have to much of a lip around the edge.(1/32 max.)as rotors only last around 40k and pads around 30k, i would change both together,difficulty 3/10 for diy mech.tools req pliers/mole grips(to grip brake pipe)/tyre iron(to force pistons apart,take off filler cap first)phillips screwdriver to take out screw in rotor,and a hammer
to release rotor from rust on the back of it.a range of metric spanners/sockets.to remove caliper from bracket and copper grease for the back of the new pads(to stop them squeeking).
put together the opposite of taking them apart,keep all bits in hubcap on top of wheel(you never have bits left over if you do this...)and prise apart pistons before you take caliper off the car,then apply molegrip to rubber pipe so they dont close up.

Sounds a bit like a cam belt failure.