Top 10 1990 Toyota Corolla Questions & Answers

Some cars have a second fuse box under the hood near the battery. See if your car doesn't have one of those.

how can I maximize the power of my 5A toyota engine?

1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.
2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
3. Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
4. Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
6. Remove the brake disc.
7. Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
   1. Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
   2. Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
8. Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
9. Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
10. Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
11. Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
12. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
13. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
14. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
15. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
16. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
17. Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
18. 1. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
    2. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
    3. Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
    4. Remove the snapring.
    5. Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
    6. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
    7. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
    8. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.
    
    To install:
    
    1. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
    2. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
    3. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
    4. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
    5. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
    7. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
    8. Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
    9. Install a new snapring into the hub.
    10. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    11. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
    12. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
    13. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
    14. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
    15. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
    16. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
    17. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
    18. Install the brake disc.
    19. Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
    20. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
    21. Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
    22. Lower the car to the ground.
    23. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
    24. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment

The light is mounted on the left side of the shift consol, but you will have to remove the consol to get at it

1990 Toyota Corolla Stereo Wiring Diagram

Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray
Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Radio Illumination Wire: Green
Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 4′
Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Purple
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Purple
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Green
Rear Speakers Size: 4′
Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): White

Tighten in several passes to 44 foot pounds.

I just wanted to add. Since this is an aluminum cylinder head, I hope you loosened the head in the loosening torque pattern. The pattern opposite of the torque tightening pattern. If not, you stand the chance of warping the head.

Again, since it's an aluminum head, it needs to be checked for flatness. Most aluminum heads need to be surfaced before re-installing.

Tightening torque pattern is as follows:

1.The Drivers side of the engine is the Left side.
From the Front going towards the back; the bolts are numbered 10, 6, 1, 3, and 7.
From the Front going towards the back on the Passenger side; the bolts are numbered 8, 4, 2, 5, and 9.

The Exhaust and Intake Camshaft Bearing Cap bolts go to 9 foot pounds. Tighten gradually. One bolt to the other with so many foot pounds, work back, and forth up to 9lbs.

Camshaft Timing Pulley bolts go to 43 foot pounds. (In a tightening sequence, and gradually)

If your engine cranks normally but will not start and cuts off because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:
A bad pickup inside the distributor a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears, broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.
If there is power going from the coil to the dist, but no spark coming out of the dist. the Condenser is bad. Small round thing that has a wire that hooks to the points. If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on.
If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).
If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).
If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.You can check this with voltmeter.------------------
That's it.

toyota carina e 1.6i 4afe 16v engine cam tightening torques and sequence pls, thank u

Vehicles covered: Toyota Corolla, 4A-F, 4A-FE, and 4A-GE Engines

Here's your maintenance manual entry for the complete procedure:

OIL PAN REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - 1990 Toyota Corolla

4A-F, 4A-FE and 4A-GE Engines

See Figures 1 through 7

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.





Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pan assembly-4A-F and 4A-GE engines

3. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.





Fig. 2: Remove the oil pan drain plug to drain the engine oil from the crankcase

4. Place a jack under the transaxle to support it.

5. Remove the splash shield from under the engine.

6. Raise the jack under the transaxle slightly.

7. Remove the front exhaust pipe between the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter. Some models have an oxygen sensor, disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring.





Fig. 3: Remove the front exhaust pipe for better access during oil pan removal

8. On the 4A-F and 4A-FE engines, remove the center mounting.






Fig. 4: Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the center mounting-4A-F engine

9. Some 4A-FE engines and all 4A-GE engines are equipped with a stiffener plate. Remove the set bolts and pull the stiffener plate from the vehicle.

10. On the 4A-GE engines, unbolt and lower the flywheel housing under cover.

11. If equipped, remove the oil cooler hose and union from the oil pan. Remove the two nuts and nineteen bolts retaining the oil pan.

12. Insert a blade between the pan and cylinder block, cut off the applied sealer and remove the pan.







Fig. 5: Insert a blade and tap lightly to loosen the oil pan free from the block

To install:

Note: Be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the pan and block.

13. Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all traces of packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces. Thoroughly clean all main surfaces to remove loose material. Clean both sealing surfaces with non-residue solvent.





Fig. 6: Apply a reasonable amount of sealant (FIPG) to the oil pan surface-except 7A-FE engine

14. Apply new packing (FIPG) 08826-00080 to the oil pan as shown. Avoid applying excessive amounts to the surface. Be especially careful around the oil passages.

Note: Parts must be assembled within 3 mins of application. Otherwise, the sealer (FIPG) must be removed and reapplied.

15. Install the oil pan over the studs on the block with the nineteen bolts and two nuts. Tighten the bolts to 43 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Make sure when you install the oil pan drain plug using a new gasket.






Fig. 7: Tighten the 19 oil pan retaining bolts securely-4A-F, 4A-FE and 4A-GE engines

16. If equipped, install the oil cooler pipe, two new gaskets and union bolt. Tighten the union bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

17. Install the front exhaust pipe (with new gaskets on either end of the pipe) to the manifold.

18. On the 4A-GE engines, install and secure the flywheel housing under cover if removed.

19. On the 4A-FE engines if removed, attach the stiffener plate. tighten the No. 1 bolt first then the 5 bolts in the sequence shown. Tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).

20. On the 4A-GE engines, attach the stiffener plate with the 3 set bolts and tighten them to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

21. Attach the center mounting and tighten the member side bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), plate side to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).

22. Lower the jack from the transaxle.

23. Lower the vehicle, and fill the crankcase with the appropriate amount of engine oil. Engine oil crankcase capacity is 3.4 quarts (with oil filter change).
Above -9 degrees Fahrenheit, use 10W-40 motor oil, and above 10 degrees Fahrenheit, use 20W-50 motor oil.

24. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. If all is well, raise the vehicle slightly and install the engine splash cover.

25. Recheck the engine oil level, top off if necessary.

tighten with a rachet and a decent socket with the shape of the nut in the end ,tighten to about a grunt and a slight arm muscle strain which is about 50lbs ,in two staged in the book it says 22nm +90? which to me is a load of hog wash ,make sure the shell with the hole in it for the oil spray is in the top con rod end and bit of grease in their as well before you fit the bottom one then a pull down first time with a rachet to firm pull then the second pull ,then turn engine over to make sure its not locked up then do the next one ,the lips in the shells that hold the shell inside the caps normally go together on one side and the con rod oil spray hole should spray towards the thrust side of the piston .