20 Most Recent 2006 Hyundai Tucson - Page 9 Questions & Answers

let car idle for 30 minutes. then drive at 65 miles and hour for 20 miles. do not shut car off let car idler for another 30 min. should pass emm after that.

blend door actuator, door is not opening on one side

check the wires in the rubber case on the door it may be splitting on the wires inside. will need to replace the wire from the connector to the door wiring.

You didn't say if this vehicle was Automatic Transaxle or Manual Transaxle. No need

here are two photos: One is Manual, the other is Automatic. The manual trans has a separate switch (all by itself), however, the automatic (of both the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder) use the trans range switch to provide power to the back up lamps







Hope this helps

IN the selector rails in the top section of the box there is a spring loaded de-dent ball that come into play when the lever is placed or pushed towards reverse. To select reverse you have to overcome this spring so that the selector rail can be moved. IF you can get a look at the top section of the box you may see a plug that is screwed in and facing the gear selector lever min the reverse position. If you can unscrew this plug there should be a spring and then a plunger of ball. I suspect that the spring may be broken or the plunger is stuck. If you can get to the gear lever pivot and remove it you will see the plunger that I am talking about . It should be in the removable top section

Hi there:First I sugest to check this information about "engine noses"...ENGINE CLICKING NOISESA clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATINGThe cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

the water pump is located on the side of the engine block where the cam belt is .its a straightforward job but again its a physically hard job as the cam belt and auxiliary belt need to be removed .and you will loose all your coolant .then the timing will need to be set up .when your car is due for a cam belt { its always worth replacing the water pump on any car }as its such a pain trying to change the pump again ..if you are thinking of doing this yourself ..I would think again ..it is beyond the scope of a DIY mechanic from the point of view you will nned a ramp and even if you a good home mechanic I doubt that you will have a 2 post ramp!

this could be a number of things .do you service your car on a regular basis ? is the car a high miler ? .sounds like a turbo problem .or engine management unit problem ..you will need to take it to an authorised dealer {if still in warranty}.and if so they should sort it for you free ..if not then dealer or good garage ..it doesn't sound like a DIY job ..if the car has done many miles the a little smoke in ;;;normal ;; on a diesel .but if the miles are low the you may have an expensive problem ..if its your turbo then concider a refurbish one as a new one witl cost around 600 pounds !

is your seat staying hot? the if so just order a replacement switch from your dealer .{if you needed a more expensive part then I would have suggested that you visit your local vehicle dismantlers } but the switch should not be too expensive ..and to replace all you need to do is turn of power{disconnect the battery just for safety .} the using a small blade screwdriver prize out the original switch and just unplug from the wiring loom and then when you have your new one just click in the wiring and click the new switch and you should be sorted ..if that has not sorted your problem then the relay may be fused in the closed position {but unlikely } but for now if its annoying you the just remove the appropriate fuse .good luck

on your model called tailight relay. could be a relay for back up lights, located in main fuse box, Gary

your alternator is shot, use a multimeter to check the battery terminals. with the engine running, you should be reading above 13 volts DC.

Sounds like you have multiple problems for the heater, you need a blower motor resistor. Do you have auto light function? If not your switch is most likely on its way out

take it o garage to scan it may only need reset.

no there is no fog light wire but there is a location for the fog lights. You will have to wire it up or get a tech to do it.

Ain't one.