Top 10 2006 Hyundai Tucson Questions & Answers

mirandamcl,

I just took my 2006 Tucson in to have this fixed. It was simply that that hose from the air filter was not clamped on tight. That was 2 days ago, no more problem.

there are over 200 reasons for the check engine light to come on, the gas tank cap is just one of them, this light and the problem that turned it on are most likely covered under the federal emission warranty, contact the dealer. see trouble code list below for some of the probelems that cause a check enghine light.
P1100 Map Sensor - Malfunction
P1101 Map Sensor - Abnormal
P1102 Map Sensor - Low Input
P1103 Map Sensor - High Input
P1104 Air Flow
P1105 Air Flow - Abnormal
P1106 Air Flow - Low Input
P1107 Air Flow - High Input
P1108 Fuel Pump
P1109 Fuel Pump - Abnormal
P1110 Fuel Pump - Stuck On
P1110 ETS System - Malfunction
P1111 Fuel Pump - Electrical
P1112 Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor
P1112 VGT Actuator - Malfunction
P1113 Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor - Abnormal
P1114 Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor - Low
P1115 Coolant Temperature Input - Abnormal
P1116 Boost Pressure Sensor - Malfunction
P1118 ETS Motor - Malfunction
P1119 Inlet Metering Valve Control
P1120 Electric Governor - Malfunction
P1120 Inlet Metering Valve Malfunction
P1121 APS PWM Output Circuit Malfunction
P1121 Throttle Position Input - Abnormal
P1122 Boost Pressure Control Valve
P1123 Fuel System Rich - Idle
P1123 Timer Position Sensor - Malfunction
P1124 Fuel System Lean - Idle
P1125 Fuel Press Sensor1
P1126 Fuel Press Sensor2
P1127 Fuel System Rich - Part Load
P1127 Control Sleeve Position Sensor
P1128 Fuel System Lean - Part Load
P1130 Start Solenoid- Malfunction
P1131 Injection Quantity Adjust
P1134 O2s Transition Time(B1/S1)
P1135 Injection Timing Servo
P1140 Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P1141 Slow Duty Solenoid- Malfunction
P1145 Main Duty Solenoid- Malfunction
P1146 Idle Co Potentiometer
P1147 Accelerator Position Sensor (ETS) Circuit
P1150 Barometric Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P1151 Accelerator Position Sensor (EMS) Circuit
P1152 Accelerator Position Circuit-Low Input
P1153 Accelerator Position Circuit-High Input
P1154 O2s Transition Time(B2/S1)
P1155 Limp Home Valve- Malfunction
P1159 Variable Induction System
P1162 High Pressure Pump & Fuel Line
P1166 O2s (B1) Control Adaptation
P1166 Limit O2s Lambda Control (B1)
P1167 O2s (B2) Control Adaptation
P1167 Limit O2s Lambda Control (B2)
P1168 O2s (B1/S2) Heater Power
P1169 O2s (B2/S2) Heater Power
P1170 ECM (Barometric Pressure Sensor)
P1171 ETS Valve Stuck - Open
P1172 ETS Improper Motor Current
P1173 ETS Target Following Malfunction
P1174 ETS Valve Stuck - Close #1
P1175 ETS Valve Stuck - Close #2
P1176 ETS Motor Open/Short #1
P1177 ETS Motor Open/Short #2
P1178 ETS Motor Power - Open
P1179 ETS Position F/B-Mismatch
P1180 O2 S1 Heater Circuit- Malfunction
P1180 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Malfunction
P1181 Fuel Pressure Monitoring
P1182 O2 S2 Heater Circuit - Malfunction
P1182 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Short
P1183 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Open
P1184 O2s No Activity (B1/S2)
P1184 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Power
P1185 Fuel Position - Excessive
P1186 Fuel Pressure - Too Low
P1187 Regulator Valve - Stuck
P1188 Fuel Pressure - Leakage
P1189 Governor Deviation
P1190 Intake Throttle Actuator
P1191 ETS Limp Home Valve On
P1192 Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction
P1193 ETS Limp Home - Low Rpm
P1194 Limp Home - TPS2 Position Malfunction
P1195 Limp Home - Target Follow Delay
P1196 ETS Limp Home - Close Stuck
P1300 Spark Timing Adjust Signal
P1300 Injector Specific Data Fault
P1300 Synchronization Error-CKP/CMP
P1301 TDC Sensor - Abnormal
P1302 TDC Sensor - Low Input
P1303 TDC Sensor - High Input
P1304 Phase Sensor
P1305 Phase Sensor - Abnormal
P1306 Phase Sensor - Low Input
P1307 Phase Sensor - High Input
P1307 Accelerator Sensor - Range/Performance
P1308 Ignition Coil.1
P1308 Accelerator Sensor - Low
P1308 Accelerator Sensor Circuit - Low
P1309 Ignition Coil.1 - Abnormal
P1309 Accelerator Sensor - High
P1309 Accelerator Sensor Circuit - High
P1310 Ignition Coil.1 - Low Output
P1310 Injection Control Circuit Fault
P1311 Ignition Coil.1 - High Output
P1312 Ignition Coil.2
P1313 Ignition Coil.2 - Abnormal
P1314 Ignition Coil.2 - Low Output
P1315 Ignition Coil.2 - High Output
P1316 Ignition Coil.3
P1317 Ignition Coil.3 - Abnormal
P1318 Ignition Coil.3 - Low Output
P1319 Ignition Coil.3 - High Output
P1320 Ignition Coil.4
P1321 Ignition Coil.4 - Abnormal
P1321 Glow Indicator Lamp - Short
P1322 Ignition Coil.4 - Low Output
P1322 Glow Indicator Lamp - Open
P1323 Ignition Coil.4 - High Output
P1324 Glow Relay - Malfunction
P1325 Glow Relay - Abnormal
P1325 Glow Relay
P1326 Glow Relay - Stuck On
P1326 Glow Relay - Short
P1327 Glow Relay - Electrical
P1327 Glow Relay - Open
P1330 Spark Timing Adjust Signal
P1331 #1 MF Signal Line Short
P1332 #2 MF Signal Line Short
P1333 #3 MF Signal Line Short
P1334 #4 MF Signal Line Short
P1335 #5 MF Signal Line Short
P1336 #6 MF Signal Line Short
P1337 #7 MF Signal Line Short
P1338 #8 MF Signal Line Short
P1340 IFS 2 Open

Typically, that there's an issue with the Idle Air Control Valve. They're known for seizing/sticking on Kias.

It could also be the Mass Air Flow Sensor. They're known to be a little flaky on Kias. If someone confirms it's the MAF sensor, replace the wiring harness with it (trust me, worth it, as they're known issues too).

Another possibility is the Throttle Body Position Sensor. If it's hooped, replace it and the gasket. Yes, you guessed it, they're ALSO a known problem with Kias, particularly the Rios.

Yet another known problem is that some of these Rios left the factory with the breather and pcv tube hooked up into each other's connections. See if they're swapped and swap them back if neccessary.

Another factory issue is the timing sprocket set. Some Rios left the factory with one or both installed backwards (despite the very clear labelling stamped into the sprocket), which allows the belt to skip a tooth, and you end up with valve timing issues, and eventual cylinder head problems.

Bottom line is have someone look for these known issues first, because they're all fairly common, and it's usually some mixture of any number of them. Have whoever's doing the work on it check the camshaft seal and the intake air temperature sensor while they're in there- yup, more known issues with Rios- as well as the plugs (prone to carbon buildup in these engines) and do a pinout test on the ECM (prone to failure in the air/fuel metering capacity particularly).

check your key see if its not damaged ok also press the break move the steering wheel slowly and move the key as you are moveing the steering wheel

There are two horns. One on each side, under to the side, under headlight area. The drivers side you can remove the battery for clear access. The passengers side can only be accessed from below the car, due to the A/C lines. The factory connectors are impossible to remove, so be ready to cut the wires.

this light comes on when 1 or about 200 malfunctions has occured in the electronic engine and emission controls, it can be as simple as a loose gas cap to a failed fuel injector, to find out what fault code is stored in the computers memory you must have what is called an OBD2 fault code test, Kragen and Autozone do this for free.

You didn't say if this vehicle was Automatic Transaxle or Manual Transaxle. No need

here are two photos: One is Manual, the other is Automatic. The manual trans has a separate switch (all by itself), however, the automatic (of both the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder) use the trans range switch to provide power to the back up lamps







Hope this helps

The issue you describe can be caused by several possible conditions. The best advice I can offer is take the vehicle into an authorized Hyundai Service Department to have it properly diagnosed.
The worse thing about chasing parts is you may or may not just get lucky on the repair. Then again you may end up shelling out $100's of bucks before you actually hit on the cause.
Possible Causes
1. Malfunctioning thermostat in the evaporator - monitors evaporator temperature so it doesn't freeze over.
2. Malfunctioning A/C control head (panel)
3. System is possibly UNDERcharged (insufficient refrigerant)
4. Malfunctioning Tripple Switch (the switch monitors pressure in the system: i.e., if pressure is too high, it will shut down the A/C; if pressure is too LOW, it will shut down the A/C) If this switch is malfunctioning, it can cause the symptom you describe.
5. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor malfunction - if the sensor is lying, telling the engine computer that the temperature of the engine is above 230 degrees, the computer will shut down the A/C.
This is why you should have the problem properly diagnosed.
Hope this helps.

lock driver door then passenger door with the key wait 5 mins then unlock the driver door with key and then passenger door with key but don't open the doors when you first unlock it then after all doors un lock then hold foot on brake then insert key turn it to on position while holding brake down
then release brake then compress brake 3 times and then turn the key to off position. this should reset the security system for you

Hi there:
First check this information about "engine noses"...

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

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