20 Most Recent 1997 Geo Metro Questions & Answers

Check your work.

Visit the on-line store, known as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

Sounds like it cant breath, Is the cat converter clogged? or do you have a huge vacuum leak?

if your going to start to do repairs get a manual 20.00 well spent ,once you get it off you have to put it back together with proper spec.try auto zone librairy.

DLR, you meant DRL? day light running lamps>? are you in canada, if yes, that be good to say , yah? and if so, the wiring is all unique there, as it is on all cars in all countries (laws ) to fix DRL in ANY car you need (unless luck and inspections fail) is called a SCHEMATIC. with that and any $10 volt meter this job is easy. so what do we know. we know the 2 fuses are not BLOWN. we know that DRL runs low beams. and fails we know that DRL does not run Highs ever. (top clue) my guess is FLASH works too, and is clue 2. clue 3, is the HL relay is good, or high beams would be dead except on FLASH. the first thing to do with DLR failure. is to pull the module and see the burnt pins, as all Geo/Suz. love to do.... weak parts. now some DRL rules. the DRL has logic, and if the inputs to it fail the DRL fails. the hand brake most work, that is the switch and the brake lamp on the dash must go out, does it? rule 2. the DRL lamp on the dash does it work>? normally? the DRL runs lows. and the DRL has 2 modes, for DRL DRL , with the dimming resistor active (DRL mode is dim) DRL , bypassed mode, driver selects Lows. the DRL logic sees you do that and exits, DRL dim mode for full bright low beams. that i show it all works. see this drawing. ask how to test it more.. its not hard, ask. here it is. sorry that fixya add image sux.. truely.or measure the voltage on all pins (dlr module)tell me?them.?and I tell you whats wrong.but look for burned pins first ,hint hint

3 anon posts. can we get 4? WHICH ENGINE ASKED 3 TIMES. NOW. g10 g13BA OR g13BB ENGINE? MY wild guess, i use tools and not guess but here in net bunny land, cant 1: cat melted 2: fuel pressure low 3:never tuned up in a decade, filters., spark parts 4: map sensor hose bad, clogged,cracked or?

THERE NO SUCH FUSENOW ASKed 3 MORE TIMES(i delete the extra useless posts now one,so please add to just one post one problem here, click comments.are you repairing your car. 99%dontor your hubby or boy friend. or what,what are you asking,no real question posted. besides non existant easter egg hunts, wastedexamples of questions:can you guess?, ,sure,but why, 25 things possible.can you show the schematic.? sure.can you show, how to find the shop manual? sure posted 100 times here, ever like searchgoogle mitchell DIY..... bingo.can you show the specific meter checks ,surefacts:you cannot fix cars by guessing, sorry,but is vastly more complex that you imagine.should I post my 50 years, sparks experience in a text box, ?my guess, no toolno shopno sparks skills.no cash for tools, other wise most folks get the fixed,with the daunting task of learning toolsand electric rulesnow my useless guess.statsthe DRL module pins are fried, as all GEO'S do.seen 100s.but fate wins,not guessing.why own a Geo, ? LIKE THE YUGO OF CARS NOW.

POSTED 4 TIMESWHY AND LACKS REAL QUESTIONS.IS THIS A GUESSING GAME.?>

posted 4 timesthere IS NO DRL fuse.sorrywhy not ask a real questionhowto....where can Ilike that.

old posts . if it cranks all engine stall for the following reason. (physics) in the proper order. 1: engine bad. (or cant breath) (compression loss huge 1 or more cylinders. 2: this engine 1.0L or 1.3 runs on GAS, and spark is next , no spark running end. (slow or fast, and is called misfiring) 3: bad fuel, (too much flooding its called or too little bogging and stalls) 1,2,3, its one of those 3 things there 3 exceptions (kinda) a: battery power ended, 12v became 8v and engine stalls, actually EFI goes (OFFLINE) when no power. to run it. b: EGR stuck open. very common, make all the above useless when stuck open. c: idle air, the engine need air to breath or it floods. there are 2 parts related to this fact, IAC valves if many times. or ISC valves, that meter air hot or cold engine. (thermal air valve or electric or both) if they stick closed, no air now , engine stalls , unless you right hot foot the throttle pedal and save the stall., if that is super easy , you lost air ! the number 1 reason for stalls in not getting tuneup. Are your spark plugs in car , antique? going for the 10 year record on spark plugs, or spark wires. why? then FILTERs. to solve this riddle, the shop uses TOOLS, those tools. Gauges , meters, scanners and scopes. Make the job easy and fast. why not ask a shop just to diagnose car. (be wise to tune up first and not have them prove to you with hours of labor proving, gee, all these parts here, are useless. (aka. basic service points parts)

sounds like stick shifted car, manual. trans. so. clutch is dragging if it has clutch master cylinder, and slave first check the clutch filler cap, is the fluid full? some have a cable clutch, and needs to be adjusted every 20k miles. did you.? or the shift linkage is off, and cant get fully in to 4th, so grinds. again service skipped now bad. why not get it serviced.?

images for 1997 geo metro camshaft position sensor

1993 Geo Metro Camshaft Position Sensor Unraveled ...

? 5:18 www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXA1yFePM4w Apr 8, 2015 - Uploaded by Jeff Dean This is Part One of a series where I document my troubles with the Camshaft Position Sensor. This first

It's just seized on the hub from heat and exposure to the elements. You can either kick the snot out of the tire itself (kick it at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions), repeatedly until it comes off, or hold a piece of a 2x4 against the tire and hit it with a mallet - hard. Don't hit the wheel, just the tire. Hitting the wheel may dent it, but hitting the tire (or kicking it) won't hurt it. Beat it like that and it'll come off.

Could be Transmission related. Have you checked the Fluid level? Also have you changed anything recently like new tires? Its not uncommon for some tires like (Hankook for example) to make road noise? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_411a7faba7ce8217

The o2 sensors may be ok. They read the amount of fuel and air left over in the unburned exhaust. If too much fuel or air present they will set a code. I agree with Johnny... Have the codes reset and see if the light comes back on. If so you need to have a scan done to see what is causing this code to set

first check fuses. (test them) then check for spark at all 4 cylinders. good.? if not timed correctly (spark) with timing light, then the cam belt slipped. (oops not changed at 60k, oops) if all that is good engine runs on test fuel, does it? if yes, you lost fuel. easy huh, watch scotty https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

does the fan work on high. yes, then the heater resistor block is burned up. replace that or look at it to see if the coil there are burned up and gone. please post systems first, then your guess. the FSM covers all this, step by step, take apart dash. under HVAC chapter,. alldata.com log in and its there. factory service manual. removing the control is tricky on all cable cars. you must get the cables loose before the panel can move out. the cables all clamped down or they will be dead. (all cars with cables drive) please post of HIGH speed blower works on high first. why do this the hard way, at the worst we can use a voltmeter and prove what is dead, first. see those rules on cables in the FSM below? ill not post the panel Remove

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the heater control unit from the instrument panel.
3. Remove the mode and temperature control cables at the heater case. Remove the cables from the vehicle.
4. Remove the fresh/recirculate control cable at blower case and remove from vehicle.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
6. Adjust the cables prior to attaching at heater control unit.

now lets look at the blower, dead, on all speeds but HIGH , i bet. ????????????????? this is your cave man simple blower so if FUSE marked HTR is good, and 12vdc is on both sides of fuse keyon, then it is good,. and 12vdc lands on motor top where below on HIGH the blower and switch works on high. if say the right side resistor blows up, (as all do) then all lower speed fail. and DC power fails to reach the fan motor. how is that? clear>?