20 Most Recent 2004 Honda Accord - Page 10 Questions & Answers

You don't mention power supply and switches. I hope you checked these first on both d side doors.

locate your cat converter on your exhaust system and behind it going towards back of car u will see a wire connection going into the exhaust system tube thats ur o2 sensor

If you've replaced the MAF sensor recently (I assume you've checked part numbers match with your old one?) disconnect the plug and ensure the contacts are clean and no debris has found its way in.

have someone hold the cage and pound on the center metal part it should break loose for you it is not pressed on be sure to hit the metal part not the plastic cage

I believe you have drum brakes on the back. Not sure. If so, it probably is the automatic adjuster is frozen. This comes into play when you go backwards and apply the brakes. It is used so that the emergency brake is in proper alignment, that is, it only takes a few clicks before the emergency brakes start being applied. If there were no adjuster, as the brakes go old, you would lose the emergency brakes entirely.

yep, or unit has a problem it self.

What about it?? Is it on? Check the codes. More info please!!!

Best way to make sure the right thing is fixed is to bring it to a dealer. Usually the only thing that stops the air flow is a malfunctioning blower motor, but what causes this is usually the blower motor resistor pack.

First thing I would check is all frame grounds... like the negative battery cable and the grounding strap on the passenger side motor Mount to the wheel hub. In any electrical system, lights draw more current than anything (except the battery) when you turn them on... Check the grounds!

.044 Happy New Year!

how much, a lot means nothing, to me they all do. so...??? MPG? is what. or liters per 100km (metric) ROTW

run fault codes first check for HO2S sensor problems . Check the cat converter conditions Check fuel pressure in the manifold Check that the brake calipers are free to move on the mounting pins and not dragging on the rotors. Check that the hand brake is releasing fully and not dragging on the brakes.

a mazda, honda. got honda radio in a mazda or reverse? im Gobsmacked. id done matter, just read my 30 posts now, with same queston searches DO WORK, here and at google , over 1million hits too. the DEALER any licensed locksmith, can. (goggle finds them) or do as one poster did, guess 5000 times. and won. so 3 possible.

no engine stated, so any help will be wrong, !!!!!! V6? we cant open hood and look, so we are blind as bats. here. bad input nets bad output , just like a computer. i dont think its LHT. left hand treads. its either rusty, or last guy used red loctite and needs 300F heat to get IT, soft. or your not trying up to 150fl-lbs of reverse torque. my damper is at 100/ft/lbs and will take way more to break free (no locktite) my guess 2 is this is a slush pump car, a A/T tranny? and as such , you cant lock the M/t in 5th gear? sure, and the FSM shows what to do , to get it off for A/Ts some engines, have special tool. and or a pulley locking device. (home made works, made many) some guys just use impact gun and strip the treads out of the crank and the new FSMs all say, (DONT DO THAT, exactly) in a shop the dork that does that , just calls you and say, hey buddy your crankshaft is wrecked, (dont let them touch your engine) btw l, read the fsm. and all words for the UNSAID actions you are taking. here is one , just to scare you. quotes. Reprogram the crankshaft position (CKP) pattern. Run the engine until the operating temperature reaches 176 degree. With the engine stopped clear the CKP pattern. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Turn the ignition switch ON and wait thirty seconds. Check PULSAR F/B LEARN in the data list with the HDS. If not complete repeat the procedure. If complete, road test the vehicle on a level surface. Decelerate the engine speed of 5000 rpm to 3000 rpm. If equipped with automatic transaxle use two Drive positions. If equipped with manual transaxle use first gear. see, may be the stuck bolt is a blessing, here i will quote the pulley page for the 3.0L just to show what a pain A/T cars are. (unsaid tranny )

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the right front wheel.
3. Remove the splash shield.
4. Remove the drive belt.
5. Hold the pulley with the holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B).
6. Remove the bolt with a heavy duty 19 mm socket (C) and breaker bar, then remove the crankshaft pulley.

7- clean the crankshaft pulleys (A), crankshaft (B), bolt (C), and washer (D). Lubricate with new engine oil as shown. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt, as follows. Do not use an impact wrench.

• Hold the pulley with the holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B), then tighten the bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm) with a torque wrench and 19 mm socket (C)
• Mark (D) the bolt head and crankshaft pulley as shown, then tighten the bolt an additional 60 ? (The mark on the bolt head should line up with the mark on the crankshaft pulley)

1. Install the drive belt.
2. Install the splash shield.
3. Install the right front wheel.

note carefully this bolt is not set to a final torque, it uses base plus angle. id use a new bolt. (im savvy and hate buying new crank shafts)

get it serviced , you can't do Air bags. you have no scan tool for it.

buy the $1000 scan tool? (or more, most scan tools do not cover bags or ABS) (only pro level tool$) or go to any ASE shop or dealer or read all pages in the FSM covering SRS. or read at alldata.com

a honda, deville, really?