Top 10 1992 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

okay everybody...i did it myself....replaced the main relay and the TCU box..but i didnt use another OKI manufactured TCU..i bought the Denshigiken manufactured one....(this was a 2nd manufacturing of the TCU)....when it first arrived today i opened the module up to check the resistors and capacitors...and noticed the completely different configuration and parts inside...this worried me..but i hooked it up anyways...to my amazement all problems vanished ..and everything works now..(cruise control, shift interlock, D4 light, tranny shift, brake light, intermittent no start, everything that was wrong..must have ran through this stupid little resistor) ......i solved his problem for less than $100.00..and less than an hours work....i can get more of these Main relays and TCUs if someone needs or needs help locating and removing/installing new pieces...email me at [email protected] or call me @816-286-8851..ill be glad to help

Main relay ........$10.00..
TCU................. $80.00...
10mm deepwell ...$4.00

Of course you can make this repair! I'm wondering about the faulty bulb that shorted out all the brake lights...not sure if that's what happened. Your brake light switch is located on the brake pedal, up above where your foot goes. It has a plug in connector which you unplug, then loosen the locknut where it attaches to the pedal.Put in the new switch, lock nut 1st, then plug it in. Note that the locknut is the adjustment point that determines when your brake lights go on. Adjust the locknut so that the brake lights go on when the pedal is depressed within 1/2 an inch (13mm)of pushing down on it. If the switch is adjusted without enough play (say 1/8 inch or less), brake lights may flicker on and off when you go over a bump.If over 1/2 inch, brake lights might go on only if great force on pedal is used (or not at all, yikes!).For good diagrams of parts check out South Bay Honda (hondapartscheap)web site. You enter the year, model, engine, and you can scroll thru tons of parts. If you have any more questions, do not hesitate to post it for me. countrycurt0

there is a fuse box in the engine bay and a fuse box in the vehicle. the one in the engine bay is the upper right side(passenger). the inside of the fuse box cover has a map of the fuses....this is a mirror image of the fuse box, so hold it next to the fuse box to locate the proper fuse. the box in the car is on the left (driver) lower kick panel.behind , behind the hood latch pull handle. it too has a map on it with a mirror image. make sure to replace with the same amperage fuse!

can be in about three different locations under the hood or inthe boot behind one of the panels or in the driver or passenger footwell behind the panels should have a picture of an engine at its location.

my 1996 chevy s10 runs rough when first stared. after 15 seconds smooths out

Yes the oil can cause the car to lose spark, the oil leak could be caused by the valve cover gaskets around the spark openings, but 9 times out of 10 it is the spark plug tube "O" rings. The top of the valve train comes off of the head, the "O" rings are between the two halves, that will fix the oil leak.

My daughter's 1991 Honda Accord did the same thing. I discovered that the main relay had to be replaced. Apparently the solder used in the original main relay was poor and would actually "soften" in the heat and cause a disconnection. When the cabin temperature dropped, the solder would cool and reconnect. Anyway, replacing the main relay worked. My daughter's car has not had this problem since.

you have a transmission fault the D4 light blinks to tell you that there is a transmission problem when the light is blinking the transmission computer put the transmission into limp home mode so it will not shift normally and you should try not to drive it very far when it gets to this stage you need to have the transmission codes check to pin point the problem

Flashing D4 light is an error from the TCU (transmission control unit), so you got something going on with your transmission. If you want to pull the error code, remove the passengers side kick panel and look for a pair of wires with a blue connector at the end. Stick a paper clip or some other piece of wire into each hole of the connector to short the wires. Put your key in the ignition and turn 2 clicks. The D4 light will flash the code...short flashes=1 and long flashes=10. Add the number of short and long flashes to get your code. Errors are below:

0-Transmission control unit (TCU) faulty.
1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

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1992 Honda Accord Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: White/Yellow
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Red
Radio Ground Wire: Black
Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: Yellow/White
Radio Amplifier Turn On Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2?
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Green
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Gray/Black
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Red/Green
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Black
Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2?
Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Yellow
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Gray/White
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/White