20 Most Recent 1984 Jeep CJ7 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

one wire tail light pll light switch and etst for power
one wire is signal and brakes put on and test
3 rd wire should be back up light if that option was available then
or its a ground wire to light assembly

the linkage from the choke knob to the carbeurator is likely disconnected, check the linkage at the carb and follow it back from there to find where it came apart.

Love this Jeep!! The cj uses linkages, make sure they are all free and lubed. The old clutch what was the problem? Worn out and slipping? You also might have the disc in backwards. This is most likely the issue. If the clutch pedal action was smooth before and the linkage is hooked up correctly its in the clutch for sure. It is marked flywheel side and or pressure plate side.

Good news is that you don't have any control modules etc to deal with. Check for power using a test light. Start by checking the actual bulb sockets and all fuses. Make sure the socket grounds are good
(if there is power at the center contact for a bulb but the bulb does not come on the ground is bad).
Also check the light switch itself to make sure power is coming out to the wire for those lights.
An easy way to find which wire from the switch is for those lights is to connect battery power to the hot wire of any of the running light bulbs and then check the connector at the switch to see what becomes hot (has power) that did not before you did that. No power there tells you that there is a disconnect somewhere in the harness. Trace the wire using the test light as a probe to see where the power stops. If that same wire isn't hot when connected to the switch with the lights on, likely the switch itself is bad. (test done with "test" power not connected to the harness)
Never use this test method in any newer vehicle or you can damage control modules.
Any questions about what you find, just ask.

It could take upwards of 8 quarts... did you try to call the dealer's parts department or local auto parts supply store - they will have the exact information more readily available..
Best regards
Ck

On the side of the switch opposite the plug, you will see a smallspring loaded button. push it in and the pull stem can be removed

on Chevy small blocks there only two bolt patterns one with off set holes and one with straight across bolt holes
i ran across this same problem a while ago starter that was suppose to fit my motor according to part stores was the offset bolt pattern but motor actually had straight across bolt pattern i had to go back to i think like a 1969 motor to get straight across bolt pattern even but i know motor wasn't that old

if you have the correct bolt pattern make sure the starter not hitting on something (frame, headers, tranny lines etc.) if clearance is the issue you might need to go with a smaller starter (they work just as well but the starter motor it self is smaller in diameter) the smaller starter might not have as much power as the bigger one but shouldn't be a problem as long as your not running a extremely high compression motor

(the following is untested by my self but good friend that drag races says it true)
My friend Drag race car uses a starter off a 4.3L Chevy vortex motor( 6 cyl motor found in blazers, S10 etc) And it turns over his High compression drag race small block and gives him the clearance he needs.

One way to check the chain is to bring the timing mark on the crank pulley around to 0 on the timing scale. Then check to see where the rotor in the distributor is pointing. It should be pointing to the #1 tower for that plug wire, or exactly 180 degrees away from it (on exhaust stroke). When cranking, the rotor should turn smoothly without "stuttering". You can also do a compression test. If compression is very low you can bet the chain has way too much slack or the cam gear has failed.

some of the core and block parts on the motor will have some form of serial number on them to distinguish models and years of the cars they were made for any form of serial identification can help determine your year.

in my jeep 95 wrangler it took me 2hrs to do. i think it alldata sead it was a 4hr job

do you mean vehicle identification tag ? isnt that riveted to dash? oops wasnt suppose to remove! Get in touch with sec of state and see how to get new tag.

Lifting a vehicle changes the roll center. The higher you go the more unstable it becomes. I'd replace the shocks and steering stabilizer (sideways shock on steering linkage). Use the best ones you can afford. In an 84, I'd also suspect that many of the suspension bushings may be a bit worn. Those and all suspension linkage ends as well as ball joints should be checked for wear.

Should be a dimple or dot on each gear crank one points up cam one points straight down they should line up perfecly.

the door must be taken apart and the rear welded and reinforced and the captured nut put in a cage that is spot welded to the inside of the striker surface, this is not something u can do at home.

1-3-5-7-driver's side front to back. 2-4-6-8 passenger's side front to back hope this helps

Check with faxonautoliterature.com. They list a couple of wiring diagrams for 1984 Jeeps although they don't specify Renegade. These are official Jeep dealer diagrams for $29. I've used them before and had excellent service. Hope this helps.

Sounds like you either have a bad or not fully charged battery, a poor ground or a starter that isn't making good internal connection.
if everything is good I'd remove the starter and either replace it or take it apart and clean off the commutator on the armature, making sure all the brushes aren't worn. If you have the initial engine timing set too far advanced, it will also fight you while cranking (easily checked...if it spins fast with the coil wire removed from the cap, it is likely too far advanced)

Check transfer case lube by pulling rubber plug. It should be just below this seal.