20 Most Recent 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 9 Questions & Answers

parts can stick or jam or rust, or? what it is we cant guess, why not get help. you never stated with engine, so.....

its in the operators guide and the FSM book and on the lid did you read the lid yet? all fuses are labeled. the fsm is here. alldata.com

This is the Power Dist. Center

parked or moving both? ? why not post symptoms,??? and ask for real help not wild guesses.????????? real as in diagnostic? my guess is the HVAC system heater i dead? dead cold on all modes and the power works on HIGH? right? ill guess, heater cold on fast fan. here are the checks (I use a scan tool for ECT temp ) 1: first i touch the top rad hose is it too hot to hold hand there.? yes, that is 180F to 200F there. so is good, if not fix THAT First. 2: then step 2, heater core hoses, 2 hoses there hot same rules. yes, no? ill stop here,, but this is first. first is engine heat, changing thermostat if engine hot, is a waste of time. and cash. the engine heat can be seen 4 ways 1: dash gauge, at normal. (if don't know normal ,all this wasted) 2: IR pyro gun, check. best. a $15 tool. ends guessing . 3: scan tool ECT shows, 180F more, passes tests very good method here and is free if you have any scan tool. 4; hand flies off hose test. crude but effective, if not sure try on car that works, now you know where 180F is. "experience":

Under the frame

Replace the water pump. It should not move any direction. When you check as it is running, the pressure of the belt keeps it from wobbling.

where is light exactly? in the cluster?

should b bolted

one is lean fuel and the 2nd is rich fuel ,try clearing codes and see if they come back , it may be a fluke.

hot engine or cold, or both? 180F+ is hot. Shuts off, idling or on the fly, say at 30mph right foot down it dies? just clue here... engine stalls. is complex. but in the macro its below, using tools finds the reason,, but you never said did it restart easy./?????? 1: lost of engine compression hot engine, (or overheated) 2: lost 12vdc electric power at stall (caused it) dash goes dead. ? 3: lost spark, test spark at the failure point. if dead trouble shoot speak. 4 bad fueling, too lean (say the fuel pump dies) or too rich. too rich causes wet spark plug tips. (lots of causes ) 5: stalls due to idle RPM too low, below 800 is too low. too low idle rpm is caused by many things, but top 2 are. A: EGR stuck wide open, clean it, as the books shows at 60k miles B: ISC stuck closed. (same deal clean it) now repost and say when it stalled, at a read light or flying up a hill wot, wot= wide open throttle. and when it dies, is the restart easy or hard.

wont crank or cranks fast but will not start,???????? wow first thing replaced the most expensive part on car.? why ? replace PCM. ! wow ! what if used PCM (is it used) is bad,? if so now 2 problems, Compounding every thing,.....$$$$$$$$ last time it ran was 1 week ago , 1 year, what? miles on it? bad fuel in tank , old? why not elaborate that key symptom first.? there is a cluster there. gauges, warning lights. many, all must glow. lets do this dance, posted 100 times;. now.

1. head lights work not dim? key in pocket.
2. key on, not cranked ! (covered in missing oper. guide)
3. all warning lights glow, if not battery is weak or fuses blown.
4. and the CEL lamp there, it must glow or the PCM has no power ,that too, is a blown PCM fuse. fact. (or lamp dead)
5. lets say the lamp was dead,CEL the scan tools hows status of the lamp and all else, so use a $10 scan too now. does it communicate with the PCM and show all sensors and not DTC errors? scan it now, cant fix cars now , with no scan tool , buy one, and win on old cars. big time with pay back !!! heck all cars. 96+
6. so the CEL glows now, good, now you crank, now, does the crank shaft turn fast cranking, yes/no. yes !
7. then check for spark , got spark x 6?
8. got spark well test fuel works now , even with dry gas tank.
9. is the ASD relay closing and then dropping,? ( yes, and yes)
10. then that means the PCM cut fuel , on purpose !!!!
11. the scan tool tells you why. it did drop for sure. scan it.

1993 to now , MR. ASD 101 http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html PCM is the engine EFI brain, it runs all spark and all fuel all the time. it also dumps the ASD to stop engine fires, by law. confuses many, and all cars have this, one way or the other, all EFI cars.

a very serious problem and will get far worse get car fixed. do you want gue$$ing or do you what DIY testing, ill not guess. but it is serious. here:

1. get a rad leak down test done.
2. get the rad neck green/blue dye tester test done,
3. get a compression test, WOT, wide open throttle.

i car running 50% antifreeze at all times? Yes/no? if not and it freezes there, oops,, you killed it.

Motor is getting wore out, possibly? Valve sticking? Did you take a compression check or are you just guessing?

child locks?? active? if not the lock is jammed. fix it , by finding cause of jam (rust) or replace parts that are dead or stuck.

change spark plugs

you might have a bad wire harness from sensor to the computer. check the wires you might have a burned one or it is cracked. clear codes and try again.

There should be NO brake lines that are plastic. What the plastic line may be for is fuel, fuel return or the Evap system.
And I have seen where those lines will devolpe a leak from a pin hole, crack, split, O-rings in the ends.

A manual transmission could also have a plastic line from the clutch master to the clutch slave. So if you have a manual and it was brake fluid you saw leaking from it that could be it as the Hydraulic clutches use brake fluid in the system.

Check the Fuel Pressure, you may have a bad fuel pump.

This is full picture.

it was going to changed thermostat because it was getting hot