20 Most Recent 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hi Richard you need to replace the window regulator. The cables wear into the nylon guides causing this problem. Regards Jim...

What kind of problem? Is the brain bad or the box bad?

Take 2 screws out of PCM and replace with shorter ones If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/daniel_2eeb58b2fec3718e

the fuel cut off emergency switch thingy ,its about a inch square with a red rubber to ,locate it and it down to reset it ,it should be under the bonnet but i cannot remember if this is the correct place or not

If you have the 4.0l inline 6 and you mean buy "cuts off" that the engine stalls at the stop light or refuses to start from time to time...this engine has a well know problem with the crank position sensor, if it is bad or the connection loose or incorrect, you will have this problem

No Crank? This procedure usually works: ·Check the battery cable connections: Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine. ·Check the battery the simple way, like this: Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok. ·Check the starter and solenoid: If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking). If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck. Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear. ·Make a simple test of the alternator: If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.

the alarm or the immoblizer. i cant guess what?> if you mean how to disable per operators guide. the alarm, its there in the guide book. using the key at drivers door will shut it down for now.

There is something wrong with one of your tires. Take it to a tire repair place soon before it leaves you stranded. My guess: a tire has a big lump on it which will blow soon.

just the bulb or the whole deal, the whole assembly, the bulb is covered in all cars. in the glove box opr guide. all. the fsm covers both in the FSM ZJ http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service posted over 100 times.

If you buy a new power steering pump, it usually comes with a nut,bolt and washer to install the pulley. The removal tool can be purchased and possibly rented at any parte store

same as all cars mostly ever youtube that>? see 100s doing that this is covered in the FSM step by step or online, same at alldata.com or free here The Jeep ZJ it is click ZJ click steering opt "BINGO" http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service posted 100s of times here, more really. ever search?

google honda civic forums join one or more and post question there

Bad switch? Bad regulator?

Here you go my Friend, Complete instructions.blob:https%3A//www.youtube.com/09b950fc-a1f3-4363-8802-6fbc018cfa2bhttps://youtu.be/qzOD58p0m6w

the kick down cable must have slack, at idle. if not its bad. (end to end, something is wrong with it) this cable is for passing gear. you jam the throttle and the tranny then down shifts. called, kickdown, detent and TV cable. if the cable rusts it can in fact rust , pulled. and now in passing gear full time. or it can stick driving do to rust. what i do is make sure the trans, end of cable the detent rod is not sticking, if that is ok, , get a new cable.

Brake pads are worn. That noise is the sound of the backing plate for the brake pads hitting the rotors. You will need to replace the pads and probablt the rotors. When the brakes go metal to metal like that it typically destroys the rotor.

like all linkages made replace all worn, bad , or missing parts. just just a mech shifter, not any more. i can see an error above, the shaft has come out of its hole plate (top) usually due to collision or gross offroad activities. the parts are here. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/productSearch.aspx?&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15529&modelYear=1997&ukey_category=0&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&ukey_modelRange=0&isOnSale=0&searchTerm=

fuel filter is somewhat built into the pump and installed within the tank. Periodic replacement isn't necessary and I'm sure the filter itself and getting a mechanic to drop the tank will be very expensive. what did you do with a "tune up" ? gotta go retrace your work and make sure the plug gaps are correct etc. if a check engine light went on after your "tune up" then you need to find the trouble code with a scanner and that will help you in the direction you need to go. Free trouble code scan at my local autozone or advance auto parts or even aamco transmission shops

my guess, is you removed them and didnt mark them? the firing order? what engine, there are 5. to do this , one need to know 5 things. 2.5L, 2.8L, 4.0L and 5.2/5.9L engine displacements. the distributor rotation direction CCW, or CW and last the firing order, sometimes marked clearly on the intake manifold. you must now where #1 cylinder is (always most front) 1989-98 2.5L Engine firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise 2.8L Engine firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributor rotation: Clockwise 4.0L Engine firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 Distributor rotation: Clockwise 5.2L and 5.9L Engine firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise on a v6/v8 one cylinder is more forward. this is #1, look carefully.

did you scan it yet, to see all those DTC errors from trannY?