Top 10 2003 Honda Civic Questions & Answers

Solve? Although I clicked the link to solve the problem, I have no answers but am tempted to go after honda.

Same problems still occuring on my 2003 honda civic (103,000)!

I have:

-Changed thermostat's twice (180 degree; Yes, it is correctly positoned with the jiggle tab to the top and the correct side facing the engine)
-Installed new water pump
-Checked coolant level
-Changed the timing belt
-Checked for head gasket symptoms (white exhaust, corrosion in cylinders/plugs, loss of fluid, checked cylinder compression (all check out)
-Had the entire system presure tested 3 times with no visible leaks
-Run the car for 45 minutes with no visible drips/leaks
-proped the front of the car up to get air out of the system

This weekend I had spare time on my hands so I replaced the thermostat (checked the other, which according to bioling water at 180 worked as designed) I flushed the entire system, took out the radiator and had it blown out, flushed the entire system, installed new upper and lower hoses, checked the fan switch, I will be replacing the coolant with new, installing a new radiator (since they cost only 100 online and I have the hole front end off anyway, I'll be reinstalling the fans and switches, and trying it out again.

I drive about 100-450 miles between overheating, but it is very sporadic.

Still have the same heater issues- cold air when stopped and not accelerating at times. I am tempted to check the heater core next- but there is no loss of fluid from that ethier?

When I get the system back together, I'll try running the car for a few weeks without the heat on to see if that corrects the problem.

All of the steps to repairing the cooling system seem easy and cost 1/10 of getting them checked at a shop if you have the time!

I'll update again next week!

You need to replace the Latch assembly part thats located inside the trunk

Thanks

The fuel filter is located back by the fuel tank. See my picture.



Please don't forget to rate me.
Brett

with your description it sounds like your fans are not coming on, also sounds like the problem was never solved, sounds like you threw a lot of money at your problem also... check to see if the fans are coming on at the right times, seems like a n air movement over the radiator since you say it only gets hot in stop and go traffic... well when your driving at a constant highway speed guess what you have air movement through the radiator... check also a clogged ac condensor with bugs, pressure wash it out so the air can pass through it easily... please rate my help thanks

you may need to replace the door locking actuator, they do tend to go bad over times. does the driver side door lock automatic when using the lock button on the driver side. if you can lock and unlock the driver side door with a switch, my guess would not be the locking actuator, it might be in the remote locking module.

Step one Look at the inside door handle. Behind it you should see a little cover, You pop that off and there will be 2 phillips head screws behind it. remove them.

Pop out the door handle, and unplug the power lock plug,

Youll also have to take the door lock rod, by spinning the plastic door handle 90 degrees until u can wiggle it out.

next remove the sail panel( The little triangle shaped piece in the corner of the door on the top, ( may have a tweeter in it) ( it just pops out)

Next take a screwdriver (flat head) and pry off the cover of the door handle, there will be
2 phillips head screw behind it ( remove screws)

Unplug power window connector (big green plug)

Now just start gently pry the door panel off with a screw driver, see if u can peek behind the panel and see where the panel clips are, and pry near those areas

Need reprogram the keyfob; the following are instructions on how to program your remote transmitters for keyless entry. This document provides details for programming a 2000 Honda Civic remote. The same procedure should work for all of the following:
1998 - 2002 Honda Accord
1999 - 2004 Honda Civic
1997 - 2004 Honda CRV
2003 - 2004 Honda Element
1999 - 2004 Honda Odyssey

These instructions may also be valid for other years and models.

This procedure clears the transmitter codes and creates new ones, so you must program all remotes at the same time, even if one or more is already working.

Enter the car, and close all doors.

Each of the following steps must be completed within five seconds of completing the previous step. If you take longer or make a mistake, start the entire procedure over again.

Insert the key into the ignition, and hold one remote in your left hand. Whenever the instructions say to press the LOCK button, you should press the lock button on the remote for about a second and then release it.

Perform each of the following three steps in order, then repeat all three steps two more times, for a total of three times each:
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, marked II.
2. Press the LOCK button.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position, marked I.

Do this three times! Next, turn the ignition switch to the ON position (II) for a fourth time.

Press the LOCK button again. The door locks should now make a cycling sound, indicating that the system has entered Programming Mode.

Press the LOCK button one more time to program this remote. If you have other remotes to program, press the LOCK button on each one in turn. The door locks should make the cycling sound after you press LOCK on each remote. You may program up to three remotes, and they must all be programmed within ten seconds of each other.

Turn the ignition off and remove the key. The remotes are now programmed and may be tested.

If you've got a trunk/hatch release, hold the button for this function for a few seconds.

Hope helps.

It is under the dash on the drivers side, get under there and look, you will see it. Here is a picture of a typical OBD 2 connector plug.

HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING
HONDA CIVIC 2001 - 2005
How to retrieve DTC:
The heater control panel has self-diagnosis function. To run the self-diagnosis function, do the following:
1.Turn the blower fan OFF.
2.Press and hold the recirculation control switch and the rear window defogger switch down.
3.Turn the ignition switch ON (ll).
4.Release both switches. The recirculation indicator and the rear window defogger indicators come on. The recirculation indicator goes off 3 seconds later and the A/C indicator comes on, then the self-diagnosis will begin. About 10 seconds later, the self-diagnosis will finish and the A/C indicator goes off.
- If any trouble is found, the recirculation indicator blinks the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) to indicate a faulty circuit or component.
- If the system is ok, the recirculation indicator stays off.

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX
DTC (Recirculation indication blinks) Detection Item Page
7An open in the air mix control motor circuit.21 - 16
8A short in the air mix control motor circuit.21 - 16
9A problem in the air mix control linkage, door, or motor.21 - 17
10An open or short in the mode control motor circuit.21 - 18
11A problem in the mode control linkage, doors, or motor.21 -19
12A problem in the blower motor circuit.21 - 20
13A problem in the EEPROM in the heater control panel;
(THE CONTROL PANEL MUST BE REPLACED).21 - 38
14An open in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit.21 - 23
15A short in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit.21 - 24
- In case of multiple problems, the recirculation indicator will indicate only the DTC with the least number of blinks.
- In case of an intermittent failure, the heater control panel will store the DTC until the ignition is turned off.

The main relay is a common issue with Civics. Luckily, they are abundant and cheap. If you were sitting in the passenger seat, it would be in front of your left knee, just up and under the glove box. Let me guess? You have that steady non-starting sound? Car is trying to start but won't? Good luck dear, and remember you can get these pretty inexpensively. Ebay, junk yards, and any other parts stores. I prefer INTEX for new parts.