20 Most Recent 2004 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 10 Questions & Answers

you need to have the code pulled to find out what the problem is.so far you have spent money and not fixed the problem.have you checked for dirty or cracked tone rings which the sensors monitor for the abs system it could even be the abs hydraulic unit.without a code your just guessing

Check the tail light fuse. If is good check the bulbs.

I'm assuming that when you press on your horn pad the horn isn't working. So you are trying to figure out if it is the horn or something else. Well, either you can test for power at the harness that connects to the horn as the horn pad is pressed by someone else. If you get power then the horn is bad. Or you can test the horn directly by running a power wire to the terminal that connects to the Y/LG (Yellow wire with a thin light green strip) and connect the other terminal to a ground. If the horn sounds then the horn is good. If the horn is working, I would check the horns relay. Next I check the wiring and if it appears to be intact I would change the pad itself. I am forgetting the main thing. Check the fuse first, before you do anything.

Your selector switch is bad.

That is your LCM (light control module) located under the steering wheel and to the right. When those were originally produced they did not use high enough resistance parts and they go. I found a guy in California who rebuilds them and then sells them on EBAY for $99.00 and will reimburse you your $50.00 shipping charge if you send him your defective unit. If you go and buy the unit from Ford (which they have to order for you usually) it will cost you around $500.00 for a new one.

the spark plug socket size is 5/8"x 3/8" drive and you need a 3/8 drive 3" or 6" extension with a 3/8 drive ratchet and a spark plug gapping tool to make sure the plugs are gapped properly.the drain plug is either a 1/2" or 7/8" wrench depending if it has been replaced due to being bad.

If it runs smooth and the check engine light is off the tune up may help. Depending on mileage you may have an exhaust restriction or low compression.

The ignition switch and/or neutral safety switch is failing.
Please do not use the vehicle until you are able to inspect the ignition switch,the wire harness connected to the ignition switch and neutral safety switch + the recall on the wire insulator.
The starter gear can damage the flywheel and cause LABOR INTENSIVE repair.
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Please check the service record the 2004 recall on selected Crown Vic Police car.
Link HERE for the official NTSA recall notice on wiring insulator.
Call your local Ford dealer,provide you VIN number and reference recall NHTSA Campaign ID number : 05V206000
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Put your spare tire on one side of the front. Drive it, if it does not help, replace the spare and then try removing the other front tire. Drive it and see if it helped.

The tire that caused the vibration probably threw a weight or has a broken belt. Have that tire checked and repaired, then have the Tire shop put the spare back in the trunk.

If it is not a tire problem check your tierod ends. They connect both front wheels and if there is a lot of play, you can get shake and wobble from the slack in the frontend.

Sometimes front Rotors can cause a shake when you hit the brakes. If the car shakes without pressing the brakes, then its the tires or frontend.

You haven't told us anything
Drivability issues,stalling,no starts?
The fuel pump is in the gas tank,
it has to come down to replace pump
if that is necessary

A pump can bind mechanically
The armature can wear out
The volumn and pressure can drop

could be a bad brake caliper, try riding brake and hit a bump did it quit? loose exhaust system, boken strut or shock, broken sway bar stabilizer bolts

try turning your key half way then put in neutral then start. if this works your brake switch is bad. or the fuse is blown. when turning the key half way there are two or three positions just not all the way to start.

ouch, have power supply tested for proper voltage to pump,also have ground checked. i believe pump is overheating causing failure, Possible causes, 1) insufficiant voltage 2) bad ground causing power surges 3) Inproper ventalation of fuel tank 4) dry run pump (no fuel) 5) faulty pump relays
I hope this gives some insight but we just don't know untill tests have been made

the fuel pump is defective, there is a Ford service bulletin on this problem, there is a new pump available.

Find a button called RDS and push it. The clock will show HRS, then use the arrow button for tuning to change the numerals. Hit RDS again and the MINS will appear and lay on the arrow key until the correct time is set. Then hit RDS and it should just show the time.

Check the fuel pump fuse and the fuel pump relay Good Luck

Defrost is the default when the controller is not receiving vacuum from the intake manifold. Look for the small vacuum line going from the engine intake manifold to the firewall and trace it to the control switch. If the vacuum line looks OK, try to pull the vacuum connection from the control switch. Then start the car and see if there is vacuum coming to the connector from the line that you traced from the engine. If no vacuum, the line has a leak--retrace to the manifold. If there is vacuum, your switch is probably leaking. You can buy a new vacuum switch from Ford or some parts stores. More questions, please let me know.