20 Most Recent 2002 Pontiac Bonneville - Page 8 Questions & Answers

yes, it will usually set a code P0445

P0455 Evaporative emission (EVAP) system - large leak detected

Yes it could you need to check the fuel pressure to see if its within the specs.

first remove the tire you want to work on, then try to pull the drum out if the drum fills like stuck must to retract the udjuster, you do this removing a small rubber plug will be on the back of the back plate, just on top of the brake line connected to the wheel brake cylinder, you rotate the adjuster to release the tension on the adjuster so you can able to pull the drum out, note the on some vehicles you have to remove the big nut on the center of the drum, in order to remove the drum out. hope this will help Thanks.

Hi, those things are pretty much a thing of the past with the aluminum radiator cores and now they crimp composite plastic caps on the tube ends and there is really no solid place the put a drain. Now the common practice though not the prettiest but the only way is to pull the lower radiator hose off to drain the system. Garages of course now use pumps that they slip down into the radiators to do this job. Simple at home cheat is to use a gas pump that you squeeze a bulb to get a siphon going and drain it that way, not as messy.

I suspect a bad DDM (drivers door module) but you want a shop to dignose it first, because if you guess wrong, and it doesnt need it, you cant return the part.

Learn to program the remote to your 1996 Pontiac Bonneville without any help from the dealer.

Programming Instructions: Note: This is the same for many GM vehicles.

Look beneath the driver's side dash. You'll see a programming connector with two rows of slots. Insert your jumper wire into the top right slot and the bottom left slot. This jumps the pins and activates the programming mode. You'll hear the door locks cycle.

Push the "Lock" or "Unlock" button three times on the remote you wish to program rapidly. This programs the remote to the vehicle. Repeat for additional remotes.

There is two ways. If the way on top does not work then use the way on this link below.

http://www.programyourremote.com/classified/DisplayAd.asp?id=1322

If you still do not get it let me know.

Resolve the overheating issue. You do NOT want to let this slide as it gets TONS more expensive to fix after heat damage.
The A/C is a victim and not necessarily the cause, in this case. The A/C normally adds some heat, but the cooling system issues need to be addressed, as capacity of cooling system should far exceed the additional heat introduced by the A/C.

You will need a new window regulator,the cables have likely broken.There will be a few hidden screws behind pop out covers,the panel will then pop loose from it's plastic clips.

under vehicle, passenger side front. Below firewall, a little black rubber outlet hose. Can be accessed by jacking vehicle and clearing with coat hanger. Be careful and use jackstands.

fuel system check.

you need to use an OBDII scan tool that will read any "error" codes and give you the system that will be causing the check engine light to come on. this tool will also allow you to erase the code after you have read it. write the code down as you may have to pinpoint exactly what part may have failed and needs replacing. something as simple as a loose gas cap will cause the check engine light to come on. it could be any of a dozen different emission or ignition sensors that may be bad depending on the error code. all 1996 and newer vehicles sold in the US will have the OBDII system and standard diagnostic/data link connector,which is usually under the driver side of the dash, to plug the scan tool into to read the DTC's(diagnostic trouble codes).

Sure sounds like symptoms of bad internal seals in your master cylinder.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

You will need to remove the seat to gain access to the wire. You can work freely with the seat off.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

this is a vedio teaching you how to replace the ignition switch. hope help.

Most of the GM's I do are the plug that goes to the instrument panel. They just loose contact, 90% of the time I will unplug and plug them in and that fixes the problem. Some times I have to bend the tabs in the plug to make a snugger fit. Just don't bend to much. One time some one cut the data link connector off and the wires where grounding out intermittantly. That one was a pain.