20 Most Recent 1988 Mazda B2600 Cab Plus Questions & Answers

fuel pump in the fuel tank note that all ford are equipt with cut of suitch (interuptor) located under dach board in case of colision ,towing, ect.....this electrical devise wil stop the flow of the fuel to prevent car fire

They could share a common ground-that seems the only way they could be connected. I don't believe a fusible link would be responsible for both. If a ground screw got loose, that could explain why they went out. First step is to see if either motor is getting power on the hot wire to them. Use a voltmeter or test light, with key in ON and the blower motor switch on or the wipers turned to on. If you have a bad ground for either, your test light will light up if touching the hot wire and you have clipped the tester to a known good ground. If you get a good signal on both, then you need to check the ground wire for both. You can check the motors with jumper wires. At the blower motor connector, is only a power wire and a ground wire. Hook jumper wires off a battery into the motor connector. Tells you right away if the motor is good or bad.

Order the fuel pump for your car.

Switch the hoses on the sensor.

the blower motor has no affect on the AC system,
start the engine and turn on AC and watch the AC compressor to see if clutch engages,if it doesn't the system isn't full,if you are correct the clutch should be engaged and should quit when you change heater speeds,

how to change disk break pads on 92 mazda bravo 4x4

Very difficult on the early models. I had best luck by opening the reservoir cap, then put pans under each wheel and open up all the bleeders. Allow to drain for a good longggg time, pouring fresh fluid in the reservoir as you go so it doesn't run dry or get to low to allow more air to enter the system. When you get about a pint out of each line, close bleeders, top off reservoir and put cap back on, give her a test drive. Repeat if still not quite there. You can also pay a shop to power bleed the system with a machine, but its much cheaper to do it the way I described.

Bleeding brakes is the same on all vehicles (typically) to do it right, it takes two people. One to pump the brakes, and one to crack the valve. If you don't do it properly, you will get air up in the lines. (which is the opposite of bleeding them) First, you should make sure the reservoir under the hood is full, and you should continually check it to keep it full. If it runs too low, you can get air in the system. Typically, one person pumps the brakes (brake pedal) and holds foot on pedal. The other person will get under the car, and with a wrench the proper size, "crack" the valve to allow a stream of fluid to come out. (YOu have to remove the wheel to access the bleeder screw/valve usually) You want to Ideally open the valve, and then when the stream slows down, you want to close the valve while there is still a "positive" flow of fluid coming out. It you wait too long until the stream stops flowing, you can get air in the line, especially if person A takes their foot off the pedal and allows it to retract...this will 'suck' air up the line. You want air to go "out" the line. You need to continually do this on all wheels until there is no more air in the system. You should start with whichever wheels are furthest away from the reservoir. (usually start with the rear) Do each wheel in succession. You would probably have to do it around all 4 a couple of times. The problem with this method is that it to get the air out, you are trying to push the air "down" which is against the natural flow, since air naturally rises. There are brake bleeder tools where you can pump fluid "into" the bleeder screw, which then forces the air "up" where it naturally wants to go, and also makes bleeding brakes a one person job...but you need to get the tool. Either way will get the job done.

sounds like the valve lash needs to be set. You should have heard ticking coming from the engine. This can be adjusted by removing the valve pan covers and adjusting the tappets. If you over tighten it will burn a valve, if under adjustment a loss of power. Better to have a bit too much clearance than too little. Best to check when engine is warm. The lobes of the cam could be worn but I have my doubts.