Top 20 1989 GMC K1500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Same issue and it is a pain in the *** to spend ten minutes trying to shift to 4wd and get it to go in or out. Did replace the actuator on the differential and it still does not work correctly.

adjust the stricker bolt on door pillar . on door grap side of door move up - down to see if has play in door after replaced door pins -bushings

Transmission fluid is likely too low, when the drive shaft was removed to replace the u joint, trans fluid needs to be topped off. Also, you may want to replace the vacuum module or at least check the vacuum connection. if none of these procedures work, the the trans had another issue not related to the drive-shaft.

Check your fuses. Fuse is usually located inside the cab

maybe check that the shaft isn't bent in the distributor

one wire goes to alternator. if there are 3 wires, one might go to fusebox under hood. (big one goes to starter).

What year is it? Ignition module?

The Vortec motors typically have the fuel regulator down inside the intake (yep you have to remove the top section of the motor to see or replace them). Also you need to go to a special location on the Internet to find a replacement fuel regulator or you will be forced to purchase the whole fuel rail. It is designed with rivets you have to drill out to remove just the regulator. I replaced mine with a kit I bought on the Internet for about $100 (that was about five years ago) and it was about a difficulty of 5 because I had to drill a small hole and buy a special "security" Torx tool. Also read this first in case there's a problem in the manifold "plenum" that is leaking and not the regulator:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t566095.html
For the 4.3L vortec a regulator and special security tool can be purchased here: http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/Dorman-Motormite-55162-Fuel-System-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/49990/Cat/1276?SSAID=198698
Buy the CPI regulator kit including regulator, gasket, mounts, bolts and the wonderful instructions for $100 here or call 1-888-809-3835 to order by phone: http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm

if the starter is making a grinding noise when you turn the key, it's one of several possiblites. 1. Bad Starter. 2. Bad flywheel. 3. You need starter shims that fit between the starter and the motor. Most starters will bolt straight up but sometimes the gears get too close so you need to shim them apart.

you might want to check the oil. if its not that then it could be your valves that need to be adjusted

SOUND LIKE THE SHIFT CONTROL MODULE FAULTY OR THE YOUR SHIFT LINKAGE LACK LUBRICATION OR COULD BE LOOSE OR DAMAGED.

If all the above is as you described it, and the battery is good and the engine will crank over, then it sounds like a faulty control module.

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

If you bought an after market EGR valve you need to make sure was identical to your original there are many different ones out. I have customer replaces theirs and come in to find out the one they bought was for a 2.2 S-10. BUt i have also seen a lot of these replaced when it was just a bad harness or broken wire before the connector. The wires are generally pulled over the connector very tight and over time they break inside.

Looking at your engine from the front of the vehicle you will see the fuel injector assembly at the rear of the intake manifold (behiold the throttle body). Looking past the injector assembly, a little to the right, down the block a little ways (towards the firewall) you will see the SS Monoblock from which the two lines feed fuel to the the injector assembly. On the line closest to the distributor you will find the Fuel Pressure Connection (it will have a black plastic cap on it).

You have to remove the upper half of the intake ( PLENUEM ) and you will see it on the back of the spider Assembley, It's round and has a nipple on it.

Hope this help (remember rated this) Good luck.

The line will have to be bent to fit as you install the new ones. The length is not printed in any manual and General Motors service manual requires us to use bulk line which comes in a 100 foot roll
The best way is to measure the linear length of the truck master cylinder to the rear wheels and muliply by 2.6. I always get enoungh line to complete the job. Use a flaring tool and have pleanty of fittings also
If you plan onto section each line it takes longer and chances are you can have a leak with more fittings use

GM Full-Size Trucks 1988-1998 Repair Information
Thermostat - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Diesel Engines
1988-95 models

1. Remove the upper fan shroud.
2. Drain the cooling system to a point below the thermostat.

Fig. 9: Thermostat housing-6.2L engines, R/V series



Fig. 10: Thermostat housing-6.2L and 6.5L diesel engines-1988-95 C/K series

1. Remove the engine oil dipstick tube brace and the oil fill brace.
2. Remove the upper radiator hose.
3. Remove the water outlet.
4. Remove the thermostat and gasket.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
6. Use a new gasket coated with sealer, Make sure that the spring end of the thermostat is in the engine. Tighten the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm) on 1992-95 models.

1996-98 Models

1. Drain the cooling system to a point below the thermostat.
2. Disconnect the upper radiator (inlet) hose from the thermostat outlet.
3. Ufasten the thermostat housing bolt and stud, then remove the housing.
4. Remove the gasket and the thermostat.
5. Clean any remaining gasket from the thermostat hosing mating surfaces.

Fig. 11: Exploded view of the thermostat assembly components-1996-98 diesel engines

To install:

1. Place the thermostat into position in the housing, then install the gasket.
2. Install the thermostat housing, the bolt and the stud. Tighten the bolt and stud to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
3. Attach the upper radiator (inlet) hose to the thermostat outlet.
4. Fill the cooling system.
5. Start the engine with the radiator cap still removed, until the upper radiator hose is hot (this means the thermostat is open).
6. With the engine idling, add coolant until the coolant level reaches the bottom of the filler neck.
7. Instal the radiator cap making sure the arrows line up with the overflow tube and check for coolant leaks.

continue...

For 1998 GMC Truck K1500 1/2ton Sub 4WD 5.7L SFI 8cyl, check this procedure for 5.0 and 5.7L Engines 1996-98 MODELS...

The 5.0L and 5.7L engines use a two-piece intake manifold design. The upper portion is made from a composite material and lower portion is cast-aluminum. The throttle body attaches to the upper manifold. The lower manifold has an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) port cast into the manifold for mixture of exhaust gases with the fuel and air mixture. The EGR valve bolts to the lower intake manifold.

The Central Sequential Multiport Fuel Injection (CSFI) system uses multiple injectors to meter and distribute fuel to each engine cylinder. The CSFI unit is retained by a bracket bolted to the lower intake manifold. The fuel meter body also houses the pressure regulator. Metal inlet and outlet fuel lines and nylon delivery tubes connect to the CSFI unit. The delivery tubes independently distribute fuel to each cylinder through nozzles located at the port entrance of each manifold runner where the fuel is atomized.

Note that the lower intake manifold gaskets are NOT reusable on the 5.0L and 5.7L engines.

CAUTION Fuel injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner intake duct.
3. Remove the wiring harness connectors and brackets and move them aside.
4. Disconnect the throttle linkage and bracket from the upper intake manifold.
5. Remove the cruise control cable (if equipped).
6. Remove the PCV valve and hose.
7. Remove the fuel lines and bracket from the intake to the rear of the block.
8. Remove the ignition coil and bracket.
9. Remove the purge solenoid and bracket.
   

Note the location of the manifold bolts and studs before removal for reassembly in their original positions.

1. Remove the intake manifold bolts and studs.
   

Do not disassemble the CSFI unit.

1. Remove the upper intake manifold.
   

To install:

1. Install the upper intake manifold gasket.
2. Install the upper intake manifold.
   

When installing the upper intake manifold be careful not to pinch the injector wires between the upper and lower intake manifolds.

1. Install the upper intake manifold mounting bolts and studs in the same locations as prior to removal.
2. Tighten the bolts and studs in a crisscross pattern in 2 steps first to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm) then to 83 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
3. Install the purge solenoid and bracket.
4. Install the ignition coil and bracket.
5. Attach the PCV hose to the upper intake manifold.
6. Attach the fuel lines and bracket at the rear of the block.
7. Install the cruise control cable (if equipped).
8. Install the throttle linkage and bracket to the upper intake manifold.
9. Install the throttle linkage cable.
10. Install the wiring harness connectors and brackets.
11. Install the air cleaner intake duct.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
13. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.

Hope this help.

it will be on the intake manifold.
here is a website with a picture of it which will make it easier to find for you

http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/product_81_ECM_Coolant_Temperature_Sensor.html

Sedn us details about your vehicle.

No its not compatible.still to confirm it and to get exact compatible part number suitable for late 1996 6.5 Turbo Diesel . get the details from www.autozone.com get it confirmed from there and also they deal in parts. This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya