20 Most Recent 2003 Pontiac Sunfire - Page 3 Questions & Answers

rear of under car near tank quick connector on one side have to push in towards fuel line and pull out

valves do not normally make a sound unless the seat insert is loose in the head. This will be revealed by a compression test. I suspect that a clanking sound is much lower in the engine --like a big end failure.

The front just slides over hooks in the front push down on seat and slide it

The computer has nothing to do with the gauge,replace the temp sensor in the engine,if this does not fix the problem,remove the dash cluster,and look for a bad connection,and look at the plug ins to the cluster.

Are you sure it is not "plug knock" from bad gasoline? You may need to add a can of octane to the gas if that is the problem. If you are convinced it is the lifters then first check to make sire you are using the right oil. Different oils for different cars. If you are using the correct oil - try a product called "Rislone". You'll have to drain a quart of oil before you add the quart of Rislone so you do not overfill your engine. They drive your car for 30-60 minutes and see if the noise goes away. I like to drain the oil immediately after I return home after the drive - and you'll probably find the oil to be black.

That can be the symptom of a bad Ignition Control Module, or also a bad crank position sensor. The ICM can be taken off and tested for free at any parts store. The crank sensor circuit can be tested on the car with a multi-meter. Also small motors (like a fuel pump motor) that are starting to fail can sometimes work until they get hot and then stop working until they cool down again. Next time the car shuts down and won't restart, check for spark on a spark plug wire with the engine cranking over. If you have no spark, suspect the ignition control module or the crank position sensor. If you still have spark, but won't start, check if the fuel pump is putting gas up to the engine.

Look around the bottom of the radiator. there should be 2 one for the air/con as well.

That sounds like a mechanical issue in the shifter itself. You need to take the console apart to see what's going on. I doubt it is the transmission itself.

There was a recall on those quite a few years back. You may want to see if it still in effect

Squealing could be due to: - Improper Tire inflation. - Maladjustment in the front wheel alignment. - Worn out suspension system.

could be the neutral switch that has the reverse switch incorporated into it or a wiring problem from the switch to the socket.

Front wiring may need to be replaced, Wires are thin exposed to extreme heat. I used a used one, Dealer wanted $456 for new one. It is a pain, but gets easier by removing the 3 bolts that hold the windshield washer fluid, Got to disconnect a ground wire under the battery tray and the one for the windshield washer. Disconnect the main connector before pulling it out. Main connector is under the air filter box, which also needs to be removed. I'm in Oakville ontario, if I can help.

should be under dash.

This is for the 2.2 4cyl engine

Check fuel filter could be plug.

The slave cylinder is what moves the clutch fork inside the bell housing. It would be mounted just inside or outside of the bell housing at the flywheel.

the steering wheel needs to come off and the components behind it will have to be remove so you can see the tilt mechanism to know what needs to be done. sometimes its just a matter of tightening some fasteners that have come loose or replacing components. either way I suggest that you take it to a shop to have this done. if its not done correctly it can cause the air bag to deploy or it could cause and accident after its reassembled it if not done by someone that is qualified to do the job.