Code 16 means the PCM is offline or there is a communication issue between the PCM and PATS controller. Depending on model and year, the PATS controller could be in the instrument cluster, BCM or stand alone PATS module.
Nov 1, 2018
You will need spark, fuel and correct timing. Check the inertia switch in the trunk first. turn off then back on. Take off the plastic engine cover, turn on the key, depress fuel rail schrader valve and fuel should come out WARNING: fuel is possibly at almost 50 psi! If fuel is there, you have fuel. Pressure could be low, but not likely. Does it start now? if no, remove a spark plug coil, put an old correctly gapped plug in it and ground the plug (near the threads). Is there spark? if no, ignition issue, if yes, does it start? If no, reset computer by removing negative battery cable from battery for 3 minutes. Put back on. Does it start? You just have to keep troubleshooting until you have fuel and spark present. It is a remote possibility if you have these 2 things that timing could be off from a timing chain failure. Take #1 plug out *farthest plug forward. Does engine build full compression when the harmonic balancer indicator reaches zero? If yes, it should be running. Other possibilities; Fuel contaminated. Low fuel pressure. Bad or clogged injectors. Bad coils. These are less likely. Good luck to you!
Follow the red wire(smaller one) from the battery to where it meets the red wire from the alternator. At this point, probably near the main engine fuse box, there will either be a fuse or fusible link. Check to make sure not burnt out. To test: Use multimeter and touch red to red and black to black on battery and get a read. Then touch black to black on battery and red to the wire from the alternator on the other side of the fuse or link. If the read is zero the fuse or link is bad and needs replaced. Do this with the vechicle off and at least some charge in the battery. Other possibility is a parasitic drain from a frayed or corroded wire possibly on the starter's wire.
Then the alternator or internal solenoid is not working
This vehicle will run a diagnostic test every time the key is turned on. If the light is on, there is likely still a fault. You should have someone check for trouble codes in the airbag module.It is my experience that, once an airbag is deployed, there is an "arming" switch (usually the control module itself) that also needs to be replaced.
The Crown Victoria has a 4.6L engine first of all next how was the running condition before this happened? If it was normal no check engine light on and idling fine then check the emissions lines from the tank to the evaporative canister also check the idle air control valve hose this valve is metal and looks like a vacuum cleaner power head or a hammer head shark yes I said that you can go to rockauto.Com and look up the vehicle then the part to see what it looks like anyway also check the throttle body clean it with spray ///////now obviously I'm not there to see what's going on with the car and only you know how you went in the ditch there's a emissions line with a plastic fitting around the engine crossmember on the rear side of the engine and transmission this may have broken and is letting outside air into the system I know on a 97 it's there cause it happened to me might still be there but I'm not sure still all the lines and hoses must be checked under the car the emissions canister and valve is uder the trunk you ll see a metal cover over it with hoses going in it take the cover bolts out don't worry about the bolts there going to break from rusting out you can get regular bolts / nuts / washers to hold the cover on/////// also is the car driving in all gears and not slipping in and out of gear if yes good if not the shifter cable at the bracket on the transmission is separated from the cover and lug that holds it in place and this will make the transmission go in & and out of gear into neutral making the idle rpms go up and back down when it's in the right position if so you must replace the shifter cable it can't be fixed also check the motor mounts if you broke one the engine moved and is pulling on the cable from the gas peddle good luck stephen
No if it starts but you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running and then it dies when you take your foot off the pedal the fuel pump is working otherwise no gas at all if it was not working the throttle position sensor is bad the contact in the sensor is worn out at idle spot but when you first star it the sensor is in a different position and with your foot on the gas you can keep it running right racing like a normal engine but if no gas peddle it won't run if you just turn the key to start like normal but there's also a possibility that the idle air control valve is shot to both are on the throttle body you can look at them at rockauto.Com I'm assuming that your using premium gas and your throttle body is clean if not clean it out and see what happens before you spend $$$ on parts and check all your vacuum lines
There is a switch on the brake pedal lever that ties all of those components together. Most likely switch was hit with driver foot and jarred loose or broken.
Idea was to prevent someone from starting car or moving car without the drivers foot on the brake. Often brake lights will not light up. Fix that part and everything will release.
There are three fuse's for the instrument cluster , all located in the central junction box (fuse panel ) inside the vehicle ,under the dash !
Fuse # 14 a 10 amp , fuse # 23 15amp. and #6 15amp . Look behind right and left kick panel . But i don't think this is a fuse problem , gauge itself could be bad .