Top 20 1992 Buick Century Questions & Answers

White smoke is usually steam, you either have a bad radiator cap or a hose with a hole in it.

Found this info. I don't know liter size of engine? For the 2.2L rotate the engine forward slightly. Some, I have removed the squirrel cage from the blower, then removed. I don't know if that would be applicable on your vehicle? As far as the power steering pump, I'd have to look at mounting bracket. All I can do is throw out ideas, I can't see anything from here.

it's connected to throttle body you have to remove it to change thermostat V6 3.3

Ohms should read 11 to 15 at the injector pins. Power at the plug should be battery voltage. 12.5 with key on. Use a noid light to see if the injector wires/PCM is firing the injectors. the light should flash when cranking the engine over.

I do not have a diagram for you but you can get that from a parts store. If you follow the top hose back to the engine you will find your thermostat. You will probably have to take a couple of other things off to get to it like you air intake. Once you get to it this is a very easy fix. It is located in the fixture under that hose you tracked back.

take the bolt out of the motor mount and jack the engine up a little you can just remove the long bolt on the bottom of the mount you do not need to remove the mounting bolts to the engine.

if the problem is that the socket will not get to the bolts then use long tube sockets or deep sockets try using 3/8 drive instead of 1/2 drive or even 1/4 " drive as these deep sockets have a small outside diameter

Here's a video on your plugs. Buick Regal Century rear spark plug replacement

Here's a link on replacing your fuel pump Brenda. http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0996b43f803937e1&partName=Electric+Fuel+Pump&partId=0996b43f803937e1

If you view the other tensioners you will see one that can be loosened, it will allow for some play. Install the replacement belt and reset the tensioner so that it is snug. There should be a belt routing diagram under the hood.

passenger side Under dash on the side kick pad with 3 connector To replace it .. unplug battery then remove connector at ECM on old ecm remove two screw and the plate remove both memory and install them in the new ECM....plug 3 connectors and battery cable hope it help

Before you do anything DRASTIC, call your local GM dealer to see if he can cut you a new key using your VIN number. Some dealers do, some don't...they will need proof of ownership also. Other suggestion would be a locksmith using "try-out keys". Good Luck.

There could be several things that would cause the symptoms. First thing, is the "service engine soon" light on? If it is, then you need to get any stored codes to help narrow the possibilities down. It would really be a help to you if you could get a scan tool that will actually show live data. The reason I say that is, there are sensors which can cause your Buick to run rough, stumble, and belch after it warms up and not "throw a code". The one sensor I know will do this is the coolant temperature SENSOR. IF that particular sensor goes bad, it will NOT set off the service engine light, but it will tell the main computer that the engine is colder than it actually is. (It will usually default to tell the computer the engine temperature is -40° . Yup, you read that right. 40 degrees below zero. When the computer thinks the engine is that cold (whether it's warmed up or not) it will keep the fuel mixture like the engine is cold. Sending signals to the injectors to keep dumping more fuel until the engine is warmed up. Problem is, according to the temp SENSOR, the engine is always cold so the 'puter keeps dumping the fuel to try to get the engine warmed up. This is only one example and I'm NOT trying to encourage to "fire the parts cannon" at your car (replacing parts in hopes you fix the problem). What I am trying to get you to do is, even if there is no service engine soon light, is to get someone to hook a scan tool that can read live data on an OBD I (on board diagnosis, 1st generation) to see if there is a sensor not giving the proper information to the computer. Hope this helps.

loosen of the big nut in the middle of the pulley. use the adjusting bolt behind the pulley to release the tension on the belt. remove the big not and the pulley will slide of the shaft. Take care as to where the spacers go for re-fitment of the pulley

Jump terminals A & B on DLC under the dash & count the flashes on the dash

You have the right idea. The sensor could either be bad or you may have a blown fuse or disconnected wire. The sensor for the fan is located either in your thermostat housing, the radiator or in the head somewhere. Another possibility is low water level. Be certain to always check your water level in your radiator because without water for a sensor to read the temperature, it will not turn on and you may end up ruining your engine by extreme overheating.

Ever work on the motor or pay someone or just drive until problems arise? What about preventative maintenance,ever do any? Spark Plugs,Wires,Fuel Filter,Air Filter,Check Fuel Pressure,anything? Stalls when,under what conditions,at a stop light at idle Check/Clean air idle solenoid ! Ever clean distributor rotor & cap? Have to tell us something, so we have something to answer

P is for PROBLEM This will require putting ontoa scanner to read the codes. Could be oil, oil level, oil level sensor, speed sensor etc. No guessing, just testing and a scan comes first. You can get a mobile guy or pop into your local garage and ask if its summat they can do. cheers Roger

Which fan?

Unfortunately, it sounds like the timing chain has broken,(the "flapping sound"), did you check for spark or use a timing light. If not I would start there. Cost nothing and will rule out a costly repair. Or will confirm my hunch