20 Most Recent 2006 Chevrolet Colorado - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The Chilton/Haynes repair manual we got for our 2004 Trailblazer has a fuel diagram. So I believe the same type manual for your Colorado should be no different as to information. Did find in research that there are plastic parts on the fuel lines that run under the air intake. Over time they become brittle due to engine heat since they are on top of engine but under the plastic air tube and are prone to leak over time. Not hard to fix, just a pain to remove the interfering parts.

Have you monitored the engine sensors when this happens, if not have that done.

Under the center console.

2005 Colorado 4x4 stick shift – I had the same thing happen and it had to do with the passlock system – it will keep your truck from starting for approximately 10 minutes, yes you will have to wait and let it sit- if you try to start it will just turn over forever. On my truck the solution was to change my starting procedure, I now keep the truck in neutral-turn the key all the way for a few seconds and then push in the clutch- it starts every time. If you have an automatic I don’t know..

check for recalls . may be ignition switch

Check the relays.

I saw what you replaced. Did you do any testing, first? Anything electrical, always check voltage and ground for the component. Use a testlight. There are right and left headlamp fuses in under hood fuse box. I doubt the fuses blew, but, you can check voltage at fuse circuit with headlamps on. I don't know if there would be any applicable codes for headlamp system? You can check. Your bcm has some control over headlamps.

Does it do it hot or cold , after driving the truck for awhile or sitting overnight ? Heat can cause resistance problems , electrically speaking . Have you checked to see if there is spark or fuel pressure when it won't start ? If you narrow it down to one or the other it makes it easier for diagnosing . No Start Diagnostic Basics EricTheCarGuy

The temperature you see on the dash board gauge is not necessarily the actual temperature of the coolant. The engine has a 'coolant sensor' which sends information to the electronic control unit (ECU /PCM) and there is a separate 'sender' which governs the gauge reading you see on the dash board. The sender usually has just one wire connected to the top of it. The sender is basically a heat dependent resistor and the temperature gauge simply reads this resistance. Sometimes corrosion in the electrical connector can inhibit the correct readings, so first disconnect the sender and inspect/clean the pin with a little wire wool. Now check the coolant. First put the interior heater on maximum heat. Run the engine up to working temperature and then squeeze all rubber hoses to help shift any trapped air. Top up the coolant if the level drops when air pockets have been shifted. The following sequence should occur when the engine is warming up. 1) When cold the engine has higher then normal revs. This is due to the coolant sensor (not sender) telling the ECU that the engine is cold and that the injectors should add more fuel to compensate for the cold condition of the engine. 2) Within about a minute the idle revs begin to drop as the coolant sensor detects the engine warming up 3) After about 5 minutes the thermostat should open. You can detect yourself this by feeling the top rubber radiator hose getting hot. 4) If you have an electric cooling fan on the radiator this should switch on about now. If you have a fan driven by a viscous clutch this will engage a little later. 5) after about 2 more minutes the face of the radiator should be becoming hot and the bottom rubber radiator return hose should become warm, then hot.
If you have an electric fan and it fails to come on then check the electric relay and fuse for it. Viscous clutch fans should always show some resistance when turned over by hand when the engine is off, if it spins freely then the clutch coupling is faulty and it will need to be replaced. A sign of faulty fan related over-heating is a car than runs at normal temperature when cruising on the freeway but overheats when standing at the lights; fan engagement is to compensate for the lack of air flow across the radiator core when the vehicle is stationary.
I hope the above helps

Sounds like a bad battery. A number of chain auto parts stores will check it and your charging system free. Before that, if your battery has removable caps, check the water level, if it's down, fill to the bottom of the fill rings and charge the battery, if you have a battery hydrometer, all the cells should have about the same charge level, if one or more show a lot lower than the others, battery is probably bad. Hope this helps.

11v is too low, should be over 13v, check the battery for low water if it's not a sealed one, refill if necessary to bottom of the fill ring, then charge battery. If you have a battery hydrometer tester, all the cells should then test about the same, if not and one or more cells show weak, the battery is shot. If you have no equipment, most chain auto parts stores will test it for you free, if you jump start it, and can get it there, they will also check the charging system, (alternator, belts, etc.)

Have you tried jump starting it or charging the battery?

if you torque it a 80 lbs you should be fine , just make sure you stagger them and do it in 3 settings 40 ,60 and 80 , you can even goto 90 , good luck

you could.and they last a long time .i would use ac delco though.

grab the top of the tyre and shake in in and out If it moves you will hear the bearings clunk adjust or replace the bearings there is to be no movement at all

The shop either didn't bleed the brakes properly, or didn't install drum parts properly or knocked some sensor out of position or unplugged it. Return to the repair shop.

The light is telling you that there is a problem Take it to an accredited brake shop and get a report of what midas did wrong

Firing Order 1-3-4-2