2003 BMW 325 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is no fixing to do with the light

You are to diagnose why the light was set,
and repair the vehicles system, with the
malfunction

You need a tool that plugs in to the computer connector under the dash above your left foot. The most popular brand is Peake, but there are several brands that will work. This tool will reset the oil change light, the inspection light, and the check engine light, and will read out engine control system error codes.

First, check your dash fuse. Since they all went out, it could be the fuse. If that don't help, you have a bad wire in thr dash circuit. You will need to get a voltage meter to read the current in the dash circuit. You could have a loose wire, bad ground, or a break in the line. The circuit is behind the steering wheel column. If you have a question, let me know. I am here to help. Thank you for choosing FixYa.

Recheck your wiring. especially the cap. could be going backwards. Everyone does it.

Follow this link and watch the videos from "Blocked Out" (if you don't have the special $1000 tool needed to perform this job). You need to heed the warning listed above the videos or you have a good chance of breaking the cams.

Please leave a good rating if this helps you:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=799650

there is no special procedure to replacing the pump.loosen the bolts on the front of the pulley before you remove the belt,remove the belt,lines,then the pump.fill fluid and turn the wheel back and forth to bleed the air out.after the air is out and the steering is not making any more noise top off the fluid

You will need to find a garage with an obdII reader so that they can clear your memory on the computer of the car. It noted the error but did these errors do not clear by themselves unfortunately.

Try cleaning the MAF with MAF electric cleaner.

have your fuel pump tested as may be at fault good luck steve

It is located at the rear of the engine just aft and below the #6 cylinder inlet manifold duct and in front of the firewall. It has a pull handle on it similar to the engine dipstick but is a different colour.

With the tappet cover off, rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until you see #4 cylinder valves rock - open/close in succession. This will be TDC on #1 - set the valve clearances. Turn the engine until your see #2 valves rock, set #5 valves, turn the engine till #6 valves rock, set # 3 valves, turn the engine until #3 valves rock, set # 6 valves, turn engine till #5 valves rock, set # 2 valves, turn engine till #1 valves rock, set # 4 valves. Once you have located #1 TDC (the second mark in the pulley should be lined up with the cover mark), it is only 60 deg. to get to the next cylinder to set. If you accidentally go past the setting point, go back and approach the setting point again in the direction of engine rotation. When you come to setting # 6 the TDC marks should be aligned again.

It's probably not the latch but the cable housing leading to the latch. Try using a spray lube with a solvent. I recommend a brand called "Houdini".

5w20

TYhere's a senser in the brake fluild master cyclinder resivoiver. If he bleed the brakes and ran low on fluild the float in the resivoir may have stuck down and your mechanic just unplugged it instead of tring to fix it. Being he's going to make more moneny if you don't know the brakes are worn down as the light comes on he's just making himself more money in the future. Sounds like you need to find a different mechanic as he's robbing you. With the fluild topped off and the wire connected you should be able to knock on the master cyclinder and make the float float. you might have to prod it with a tool ( touch it so it'll pop back up. Lets say he didn't take that wire off but the one on the proportioning valve, If he's done this then you need to take pictures of the wire off and swear to the law enfrocement that you saw this guy remove the wire that warns you that half the braking system is'nt working, and let him think about doing dangerous repair work in jail. You can test this by stopping the car hard on a gravel yard and get out and look to see if all the wheels skidded the same in the dirt. If they did'nt you need to get it fixed but not by this guy.

i need anyone one to help me with this problem, i have a BMW328ci and i tried tyo get out of my house this morning and all roads were frozen and the car started sliping and i activated the dcs button and car was still slipering and then brake, ABS, CBC & DSC lights turned on and i need to know how i can reset these lights so they can come off

thats easy...your ac vent tube is probably blocked..its a small rubber hose on the outside of the car. look on the fire wall for it, it will be tough to spot if your not sure what to look for. its going tocome off the fire wall and turn 90degrees down to the ground for drainage. once you locate it, start the car turn on the ac and give it a squeeze or two, if that doesn'twork, you might have to use a wire to put in the outlet, to un block it. be patient..this is a common problem on gm cars, so i think this should help solve your issue even though its a bmw. good luck to you.

Does it sound like it has the same strength or is it slow and lacking power? If it is doing that it's probably a batt. problem. However, from the sounds of it, it will probably be your starter. Sounds like it is just not engaging all the way. Happens a lot. Hope you find it and this info is useful.

Traction control is off, can be manually over-ridden (or turned back on) by pressing a button on center console.

did you find your problem out as mine is doing the same

Hi

I only know one decent thing that will do it it's called kseal really good stuff, here is the website I don't know where you live to say where to buy locally but I imagine yo will find it in most car shops.

www.k-seal.co.uk/