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2007 Nissan Navara 2.5 Questions & Answers
Parts diagram for clutch slave cylinder nissan D40
It's easy put new master cylinder in place but don't connect rod to clutch pedal or bolt it to bulk head and leave metal solace feed pipe undone , connect fluid feed pipe to cylinder then tilt cylinder so slsve out let faces more down wards then top up fluid pot when fluid runs out slave outlet reconnect slave pipe , bolts master cylinder back in place and connect pedal to it , then undo nipple on slave cylinder let fluid run out freely titghten niplle then pump clutch pedal until it becomes firm job done .
15 minute job .
Piston clearens between head on navara 2.5 tdci
The figure you are asking for isn't generally included in the data and much depends on the engine design and the sort of work you are carrying out.
Mostly the specs for the block and pistons and cylinder head are given separately and if they are adhered to the piston to valve clearance is never an issue.
Mostly diesel engine pistons are graded for height so the correct protrusion above the cylinder block face can be adjusted. With a wet-linered engine the liner is adjusted by inserting shims to also have a small protrusion above the block face.
After machining the face of a cylinder head the height of the valves above or below the head face should be checked against specs and will often require lowering by cutting the valves seats further into the head.
Engines that do not use height graded pistons tend to use a selective thickness head gasket.
I am on the wrong computer to offer you any specs but any good data book or repair manual will provide them.
Cruise control not working
just switch it off
that will take it out of the system and you will have to use your foot to control the speed of the car
A/c not working
You're probably just low on freon, they sell it in cans at the parts store with a hose and gauge attached so you can add it yourself.
Issue with Deisel Particle Filter identified and mechanic replaced, 4 weeks later Filter Blown and car has no power. Any thoughts what could be causing this problem?
I know little about the dpf other than what I have read. When they were announced the cleaning process was supposed to be automatic. An exhaust back-pressure sensor would detect a partially blocked filter and trigger a cleaning programme where the engine tune parameters would change causing a much higher exhaust temperature to develop and a solvent to be injected somewhere and shortly (70 or 80 miles) there would be a clean filter and no back pressure. Topping up the solvent reservoir was an essential maintenance operation.
In practice the requirement for a dpf has mostly resulted in another chance for the car owner to spend more money as often the back-pressure light would mean an expensive visit to the dealer in order for the solvent reservoir to be topped up and a cleaning programme to be started using a laptop and special software. I suppose some cleaning cycles might be automatic as promised...
Assuming your mechanic fitted the correct dpf in the correct way I am guessing the most likely cause of the problem is somehow the engine remained on the "automatic" cleaning cycle where the exhaust gas would be unnaturally hot. Perhaps there is an issue with the back-pressure sensor or a software glitch.
I am sorry I can't be more informative.
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