Whirlpool Dryers - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

asd

motor was overheating need to replace

There are 4 Thermostats / Cut Outs / and high limit fuses in that machine. Test the old ones rather than just buying blind. There are videos showing how to test them with a multimeter. https://www.partselect.ca/Models/WED8200YW0/Sections/BULKHEAD-PARTS/?ModelID=1656403&ModelNum=WED8200YW0&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=3OPLX5EN&Position=1&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Dryer&Mark=1 42 Thermostat, Internal-Bias (14)Part #: PS11746740 CAD$43.42 In StockAdd To Cart 43 Screw Part #: PS11742721 CAD$7.06 In StockAdd To Cart 44 HOUSING Part #: PS2372643 No Longer Available 45 DUCT-LINT Part #: PS11746341 CAD$112.94 In StockAdd To Cart 46 Housing, Slot Heater Box Part #: PS11746335 CAD$87.44 Special OrderAdd To Cart 47 Thermal Cut-Off with High Limit Thermostat (2)Part #: PS991443 CAD$66.05 In StockAdd To Cart 48 Thermostat (1)Part #: PS11746386 CAD$79.62 On OrderAdd To Cart 49 BRACKET Part #: PS990350 CAD$42.98 Special OrderAdd To Cart 50 Cover Part #: PS11746328 CAD$94.71 Special OrderAdd To Cart 51 Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal (5)Part #: PS11741444 CAD$29.84 In StockAdd To Cart ..

if voltage from switch to motor bad motor if no voltage possible bad switch or control board

Remove the attaching screws at the bottom and swing the cap up.

The sound comes from a tiny element on the control board. Its volume is fixed and can't be adjusted.

Doesn't make sense does it! The pipes and vents might be blocked at the back, but then it would get very hot and trip out on the hi limit thermostat.

Try manualsonline.

Maybe the belt wasn't wrapped around the tensioner pulley near the motor.

Possibly a defective replacement thermistor

Make sure venting isn’t kinked behind dryer and be sure you have good air flow all the way to outside

Checking the switch would be a good idea - doesn't matter how much continuity you have, it isn't going to work if the power can't get in there, go round and around and then get out again. Continuity checks are the most use when it finds something wrong but it isn't unusual to find ohm meter checks misleading when elements or other things are wired in parallel circuits. Continuity checks really need each part of a circuit to be isolated or disconnected from the others - the ohm meter is a good way to check components but sometimes not a good way to check out a circuit. Clearly for the sake of safety the ohm meter is the first device to reach for but when those checks are exhausted without finding a definite fault it is time to use the voltmeter and chase the power through the circuit to find where it stops... If you don't like the idea of that very much, sometimes the most useful tool is the mains tester screwdriver - a small screwdriver with a neon bulb and a high value resistor in the handle and a metal cap - the working voltage is always engraved on the handle so don't get it mixed up with a similar looking screwdriver for testing car electrics. When a terminal is live and the screwdriver blade touches it and your thumb or a finger touches the metal cap the neon will glow. These gadgets are safe, cheap and indispensable in the handy person's toolbox...

Found the culprit. The thermal fuse was blown. Had no conductivity with ohm meter so I placed a jumper around it and presto dryer runs. Cleaned the exhaust and fan but found no blockage and really was not that bad. Hoping maybe just a weak part. The model on the Whirlpool Duet electric dryer is GEW9250PWL I believe the the last three are just the color. The part number on the Thermal Fuse is #3392519. This is easy to get to through the front panel just below the load door. Hope this helps some else out.

Check your dryer for a gas leak in he supply line.

Sounds like the heating element is bad saying it's electric dryer.

Hello,
What the automatic dry miser is, is a sensor that measure how dry the clothes are and will adjust the time its going to take to dry the clothes throughout the entire cycle. If at the beginning it estimate it will take 40 minutes to sry a load but they are dry in only 25 minutes the dryer knows the clothes are dry and cuts the dryer off. Saving 15 minutes of unneeded gas and electric that it would run and waste power and gas since the clothes were dry already.

GENE

f25 is a bad thermisiter,find the tech sheet in the dryer and it will tell you how to read out the thermisiter,if the thermisiter is good then you have a bad computer board.

https://consumerist.com/2012/07/27/owners-manual-error-made-my-steam-cleaner-self-destruct/

Replace your Timer knob. The contacts inside your timer that controls the motor has burned(arced) together. Not a hard part to place. BUT VERY HIGH VOLTAGE, so unplug. Or call a pro if not comfortable doing job yourself. Timer part # 3976576

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At timesit may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP1Z4OWjTuA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKLDrzXlzHM GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE