Oldsmobile Vehicle Parts & Accessories - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

For your vehicle it should carry either ATO or Mini type fuses, if in doubt, take out the fuse from your car and take it to the auto parts store, as they can help you find the right fuse type and amps. if you are not sure of the fuse amperage, buy the multi pack, which will have fuses with variety of amps, keep in mind the type, size and shape should be same. Most if not all, automotive fuses are 12 Volts fuses. The repair manual, Car owner's manual, the dealership can help you find out the fuse specs,and fuse box location(s) for your car. A fuse puller or needle nose plier is helpful for servicing of the fuse. ATO type fuse looks shaped same as the mini fuse, but larger in physical size. MINI type fuse shaped same as the ATO fuse, but smaller in physical size. Your vehicle may have a defective Fuse,Relay,Bulb, Bulb Connector, that is causing the malfunction. Also check for bad connections, but don't forget to check the switch assembly, check for dust and spray it out with can of compressed air, found at computer shops. Apply electrical grease to help keep moisture out and keep it working properly for long time trouble free. Have a nice day.

Check if the car has an ignition coil. That thing has caused me no end of anguish! After all my diagnosing, checking and almost giving up, the ignition coil was the culprit. Sometimes my car would start and then just shut off. Replacing it should be an option before taking it to a mechanic. If you don\'t have an ignition coil, something is overheating and good luck with that. Sorry.

it could just be a broken wire or a bad sensor depends on what the exact problem is I would need more details such as is the light on and not going out, or is the out and coming on when the fluid is low, for the same light should also be connected to your parking brake, so if you can provide more details I will be able to help you

you need ether a bypass module and a emobulizer code or try this way get abit of wire about a meter wrap it round the coil on the barrel then round the key then back to the barrel the second one is a temp fix you need to get a new key coded to your car

while it is on take a flat screw driver and on each side of it try to push it back a little at a time if this dont work crack the bleeder and try again

What is the question?

Put a timing light on the engine. If the timing jumps all over the place and the engine is in good tune, suspect the distributor. There are specific tolerances up/down/sideway movement of the shaft.

Faulty crankshaft position sensor...Sometimes and in some models, low battery voltage or a weak starter can can trigger a Crankshaft Position Sensor code. Before replacing any parts, recharge or replace the battery. Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0335_nissan.html#ixzz3All8bWjl

you don't usually have to replace the distributor itself. just the distributor rotor and cap. I say every 30k - 50k miles.

sounds like you have run out of gas .check with an auto electrician

This URL should help with battery specifications and also gives some choices on batteries available for your vehicle: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+-+Automotive/C0423/C0005.oap?model=LSS&vi=1224324&year=1996&make=Oldsmobile

under dash

check blower motor just because it turns by hand doesn't mean it works is it getting power

Dealer item, cost around $90.00 per key! OUCH! Smiles!

Well Jack,I'm not exactly sure what problem you are adressing, but here's my thoughts; 3M weatherstripping adhesive works well,be sure to read & follow directions to replace try JCWHITNEY>COM. about Your computer; if you have 'windows' click on START go to CONTROL PANEL look for SYSTEM AND SECURITY select RESTORE TO EARLIER DATE. enter a date prior to any issues,click OK or GO or ACCEPT,depends on your settings. it will likely need to re-boot to make changes.hope I was of some help

blend air door malfunction

easiest thing to do is take it to a shop. because you have to break the beads on the tire in order to get it off.

take one clamp off the battery for a few seconds.

If you fixed the problem and erased the codes and they do not come back, then chances are the problem is fixed. If you fixed the problem and erased the codes and the codes came back, then there is still a problem. Shorts can be tricky. Sometimes when you replace a shorted part you find out that was not the only shorted part after you install it or that part was not shorted to begin with and there was an open in the circuit that the part you replaced was part of. You are going to have to start troubleshooting. You know what the codes are and now you know what they mean and what the possible causes are. Now you need to start testing to see if there is power going to those parts and if the resistance in the wiring leading to them has the correct resistance required to carry voltage to those parts to make them function properly. The parts that you replaced and the parts that are showing to possibly be faulty due to the codes that populated are part of a large circuit of other wiring, components and control modules. If any of those components are malfunctioning or shorted then they can cause codes to populate for parts on that circuit that are not in fact faulty at all but rely on the part of that circuit that is faulty in order to function. There is an open somewhere in that circuit. You will have to start testing each part in that circuit to find it. Start with the most obvious. I would test the sensors related to the codes and then backtrack through the wiring diagram of that circuit to find out how they relate to the part you replaced. You can also check the easy, are you getting fuel and spark? I am assuming that since it will not start and you are getting fuel system related codes that you are not getting any fuel. There is something probably causing power to stop from going to the pump. As you are troubleshooting you will start to unveil answers to these questions.