Harley Davidson Toys - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It is available at http://www.erules.org. Read it

when you start releasing the clutch and the vehicle starts to move when the clutch pedal is at the highest end or the vehicle does not move at all At this time setting of the clutch wire is required so the clutch release point goes down even after the setting the vehicle does not move that means clutch plate and pressure plate of the vehicle is gone

Your starter relay is broken. A new one cost about 20 dollars

I don't know if you can buy the shade separately, but you can buy the lamp for 50% lower than its MSRP here:http://www.ecrater.com/p/3690265/harley-davidson-lamp

Its probably a cut in the brake light wire, while replacing the handle bars.Or its brake light switch getting short.Remove the brake light switch and disconnect and reconnect the brake light wires and see, if the light turns off and on.When you connect and disconnect brake light wires manually.------ Just touch the to of two wires and take apart.If the brake light comes on and goes off.Then replace the switch.But if brake light just remain on, but dont go off with switch removed hen problem is brake light wire getting short in between.You will have to follow the brake light wire till the brake light bulb.------Its getting in contact with any other 12 volt wire, that is not letting the brake lights to turn off.------------ Getting this checked will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

1. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Using a turkey baster, **** out as much of the old dark inky fluid as you can.
3. Clean any sediment out of the reservoir with a clean, lint-free rag. (Do not spill any brake fluid on any painted surfaces, it will remove the paint immediately.)
4. Fill the master cylinder with clean brake fluid.
5. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Pump the brake pedal several times (15 or more).
7. Using a box wrench that fits the bleeder bolt, loosen the bleeder valves, but leave them closed. (A little penetrating oil drizzled on the bolts the day before will help to loosen them).
8. Using a piece of clear plastic tubing (aquarium tubing works fine), push one end of the tube over the brake bleeder bolt.
9. Put the other end of the tube into a small, clear bottle with an inch or two of clean brake fluid in it. (This will keep air from being sucked back into the brake cylinder.)
10. Put a piece of 1 x 4 lumber or some other "spacer" under the brake pedal to prevent the pedal from traveling too close to the floor.
11. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
12. Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid.
13. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
14. Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go.
15. 15Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve.
16. Shout "up" to your helper, who at this point should remove his foot from the pedal allowing it to move up.
17. Repeat this process until new, clear fluid comes from the bleeder tube. (After every five (5) times the brake pedal is depressed, top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir get too low, or air will be sucked into the master cylinder.)
18. Tighten the bleeder bolt.
19. Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left rear wheel.
20. Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the right front wheel.
21. Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left front wheel.

This website gives you the rules for Mexican Train Dominoes as well as some strategies.

http://www.mexicantrainrulesandstrategies.com/

The brakes need not be applied for a switch to malfunction especially the front brake lever can be out of the locating slot in the switch housing or the wires pinched to cause this problem.
It may be worth checking the brake light relay for corrosion. I have attached a pic just pull it out and check the terminals. See fig below:---

-------------Make sure the wires are connected and the cable is not pulled out too far as a result of too much slack in the throttle cable adjustment.---------------This can sometimes happen if the throttle assy that contains the brake switch is not seated completely into the master cylinder. You will see a notch in the master cyl that locates the throttle housing.Sometimes you need to loosen the screws on the master cyl and push it towards the throttle housing,this will put more pressure on the front brake light switch so that it doesn't activate so soon.This can also happen if using an after market brake lever as they sometimes do not have the tab located as close as the Harley one.Also it is is possible that return spring inside the master cylinder got weak and due to this there is no pressure on the brake switch.If this is the case you will need to install a new rebuild kit part #45072-96C ..this is an updated kit to stop this problem .It sounds like when you are driving the bike the light comes on when its not supposed to which will deactivate the cruise control. --------------------There are also micro-switches on the clutch, front and rear brake controls that cancel the cruise control. Most often it is one of those that causes the problem rather than the one in the cruise module itself that is activated by rolling the throttle all the way to "close". The switches are located either in the handle bar clusters or next to the brake light switch for the rear brake. All are very easily accessible and can be tested using an ohm meter to check for operation. Often the problem is a bit of slack in the pivot point for clutch and front brake levers which will let the switch get operated on a bump or just from road vibration. You might try pushing OUT on each lever and see if that cures the problem which will tell you which switch to adjust. ----------------- This should help.thanks.Helpmech.

Hi.
There are quite a few items that could have failed on you.
First, check the battery, to ensure that you do in fact have electricity.

If it has sat for a long time, then it could have a cell that went out in the battery.
A bad cell in the battery will **** the power out of all the good cells.

Next, if there is power in the battery, the next thing to check is the circuit breaker assembly. There actually three components in the assembly, and any one of them can fail.





Next, you might want to check the electronic ignition, as it can fail also.




Next, check the handlebar switches




Next, check out the ignition switches

The only other think other than broken wire somewhere is the voltage regulator



These are all the electrical components on your Harley.

I hope this helps you out.

Good luck to you, and have a good day.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

You may have fuel flooding. As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you replace the spark plugs. This will result to better fuel burning. I suggest that you spray carburetor cleaner on the carburetor too for if it's clogged it can result backfires.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

This site will help you. www.doocu.com

the touring models are going to vibrate or more so shake at and idle more than your softail.the one major difference in your twin cam "B" engine and twin cam 96" A engine is that the softail is counter balanced in the crank case and is also a solid mount engine. straight engine to frame.these two counter balancer's are chain driven off of the crank. the street glide has three rubber mounts on it, one being in the front where the wish bone or down tubes turn inder the bike and two in cleave blocks that are alighned by small pins to be located in the correct position the swing arm also uses these in mounting the swing arm. so you will notice at around 75 mph to 80 mph you may get a "rider known death wobble" (just slow down) there are after market braces in all ranges of price to solve that problem. the more expensive the better it will last and work.

It sounds to me to be the battery. if you have a digital volt meter charge up your battery and first with the bike off check your voltage at the battery if this is between 13 and 14.5 volts that's a good voltage (but the cca ((cold cranking amps)) can be off) after you've gotten your voltage start the bike and test for voltage at 3000 rpm or 10% throttle if the voltage is over 16 volts or has not changed and starting to drop, check the connection to the stator and regulator located at the front of the primary chain case on the inner primary and that the long single wire from the regulator to the battery is good check 3000rpm voltage again if this did not fix the problem then you may have a problem with your voltage regulator.