Reptile - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

A mountain Lion is just a Bob-Cat (cougar) that lives in the mountains. They can pretty much live anywere they like

An amphibian is an animal that can llive, or breathe in both water and above. Frog turtle

I know this question is really old...did you find a solution??

I keep and raise many corn snakes and have had numerous successful hatchings...they are a lot of fun. Age and size will determine the enclosure they will need to start with. A 20 gallon long will do fine for a few years...make sure you get the type with the sliding locking lid to prevent escapes.I use under tank heat pads for my snakes typically abbreviated UTH (under tank heat). I UTh on the side I choose to be warm and nothing in the other side ...so in effect you have a hot side and a cool side. The hot side will be maintained at 82-85F and the cool side is room temp. usually no lower than 71-73F in my house except on the coldest of winter nights. but thats OK because the snake will migrate to the warm side as it desires.Now we need to address the substrate. After many years I have settled on ASPEN bedding ....inexpensive. clean and free of harmful odors and caustic oils. Cedar and Pine and Redwood have toxic chemicals that over a long term exposure can cause problems like caustic burns and respiratory issues. Please use ASPEN. Snakes love to burrow through the aspen bedding. Or on the cheaper side newspaper is common and easily replaced when soiled. Aspen bedding can be spot cleaned for a month or 2 and then replaced depending on the amount of feces and size.A water bowl is required and a place to hide out...A small box for free from the USPS the PRIORITY small box is perfect and free if you need to replace it. cut a few openings on the side and the top so the snake can get in and out.Feeding of rodents / mammals is required. The snake is a carnivore. You must learn to feed frozen thawed rodents available at the pet stores or raise your own. Depending on the size of the snake you will need to feed it something as big as the largest part of the snake. Usually a corn snake at 2 years of age can eat adult mice ...or young adult mice. Another term often used is a HOPPER mouse which is a younger / smaller mouse fed to 1 year old snakes. Newborn snakes require pinkie mice / newborn mice and will quickly graduate to fuzzie mice in 6 months time.The reason I say frozen thawed rodents is for the safety of the snake. It is possible for the adult mice to bite the snake and do damage to the snake, if you choose to feed live rodents. I realize after many years and seeing the results of my snake being bitten by a rodent ...it happens and I prefer to feed frozen thawed. The damage was minor but if the mouse had bitten the snake any closer to the eye cap it might have been serious and irreparable.As your snake grows and sheds it can live for many years. Shedding skin is another area that requires a bit of common sense...offer the snake more moisture when the eyes get cloudy and dull. After a week the snake will turn clear again and then shortly after it will shed its skin. During this time misting of the enclosure and a moist damp towel / washcloth will keep the humidity up to facilitate shedding.Any more questions I will be happy to help with if I can.

Ohhh those are easy... if you respond I will walk you through it. and they are all basically the same. i have 3 or 4 different brands and re program them each season , such as DLS

Have you replaced the unit...I bet the cord inside the socket is shorted...If you are capable ....unplug the light unit and disassemble the plastic or ceramic or metal socket. Unscrew the wires from the terminals and remember which terminal goes to which wire ...the power / hot side is usually indicated by a GOLD / Brass terminal. The common side is silver. Cheaper sockets make no distinction. So mark 1 side with a marker...simple. Another good thing to know is the receptacle that you plug it into...the larger grounded side is the "common" side of the receptacle. and the Hot / POWER side is the smaller prong.

Your picture is way too small to tell. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/justin_3ae27a9d61d6acd4

you must logging into your account through your mobile...or if i knew better i could help

I bet the snake is there to eat bugs. Do you have a light on by the door. The light attracts bugs. The snake just wants to eat them. Keep the light off unless you really need it and the snake will find another place to catch bugs.

It may have blown. Make sure the electrical connection inside the socket is bent up enough to handle modern fat neck bulbs that don't screw in far enough. Some lamps have a thermal cutoff that cycles when it is cool enough and turns on again.

mabe some insects like ants !

There should be a wiring diagram on the inside of the cover. It is imperative though that you get the wiring done by a qualified electrician. The thermostat has a single pole changeover contact and two separate terminals that go to each end of a 240V neon pilot light which you can wire up in any configuration independly of the switch contacts. Contact us at Cookson Controls in Adelaide if you have any more questions.

if you "feel" the two conductor cords you will notice that ONE of them has a "rib" on it.It may be barely noticeable but it's there. It goes to the prong that's bigger. (polarized plug) That's the hot side ... i think ...google it to be sure

not an expert, but it sure does look like one.

You do have other options besides pellets. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html is a great source of information. My beardie eats crickets and fresh fruit and veggies (make sure fruits and veggies are listed as "safe" and chopped or cut into appropriate sized pieces. For mine, I shred the fruits and veggies in a food processor so that he can not be picky and just eat one or 2 of the different foods. If you use wild caught insects or use plants from your outside around your home, make sure you are not getting poisonous insects and/or plants and the they have not been exposed to pesticides, weed killers, some types of fertilizers, or any other harmful chemicals.

I recommend that you post your question under the correct category (home and garden maybe?). If you add more details to it, it might be easier for Experts to understand the question and answer it.

I highly recommend the use of an under tank heating mat; however you can also use ceramic emitters, light bulbs and spotlights. I prefer the under tank variety simply because they last longer and are more moderate in their heating process.

If you are using an under tank heating mat, you should cover only half the tanks surface and set the temperature to 28-30C. This way the other half of the tank can be at room temperature (20-25C) allowing your King Snake to shift between gradients according to its needs.

The temperature of a Milksnakes habitat should range from the mid 70's at one end of the tank to 85-87F at the other end. The best way to maintain this type of temperature incline is through the use of an under tank heating pad.

You will need a fluorescent bulb that emits UVB light for 10-12 hours a day.