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When I point the camera at a light source (the sun or a bright fluoresent light) a blue vertical line starts to appear from the light. The width of the line is equal to the width of the light sourse. This is an intermittent problem, as long as the camera is not pointed directly at a bright light it's OK. When the problems starts even a not so bright light sourse gives out the blue lines.
Please help me find a solution for this. I even replaced the CCD unit.
There are no visible leakages on any of the capacitors. Replacing them is not going to be easy as all the components are placed quite close to each other. Might damage the other parts near by.There are no visible leakages on any of the capacitors. Replacing them is not going to be easy as all the components are placed quite close to each other. Might damage the other parts near by.
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Correct, Electrolytic Capacitors can have leackage and lose its capacity. Check these surface mounted capacitors bottom for any leackage. Correct, Electrolytic Capacitors can have leackage and lose its capacity. Check these surface mounted capacitors bottom for any leackage.
OK, try to identify leaky capacitor bceause its the reason of problem in camera. Please focus on 100MF, 47MF capacitors.OK, try to identify leaky capacitor bceause its the reason of problem in camera. Please focus on 100MF, 47MF capacitors.
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It's a known issue with both the A1 and the A2, and is caused by very poor design of the strain relief to the flexible circuit board which eventually cracks. If you open the EVF you'll see a small piece of blue or yellow tape on the pcb just where the damage occurs: this was clearly Minolta's pathetic attempt to prevent the problem.
There is effectively no fix for this as the only way ro repair it is to replace the pcb and to keep costs down Minolta made the EVF flexi pcb an integral part of the entire pcb which snakes it's way deep into the camera. If only they'd redesigned it as a separate replaceable section then things would have been easier. You'll notice that Minolta omitted the tilting EVF from the successor to the A2, the closely related Dimage A200.
The best you can attempt to do is to peel off the rubber eyecup (it has a tendency to tear, so be very careful) and then remove the two screws from the underside of the EVF. You'll then see part of the EVF pcb. Note that there are actually two pcbs layered together, one does have a joint in it, but sadly it's not the one which has broken. You'll see a red and a black wire connecting to a plug which attaches to a socket mounted on a side spur of the broken pcb. The blue or yellow tape I mentioned earlier will be stuck to this spur (ignore the second piece of tape right near the EVF lens). Now set the selection switch to the EVF position and turn on the camera. By carefully and gently manipulating the broken area (the break is usually microscopic, so don't expect to see the damage) you can usually achieve a position where the EVF lights up. You may need to apply more tape or some folded paper packing beneath the pcb to get the EVF to remain illuminated, and usually will need to give it umpteen attempts so be patient. When it stays illuminated, reassemble and gently fold the EVF back down. You'll often find that you have to repeat the job a few more times as the action of moving the EVF back down upsets the "repair". Once it's down, and the fix appears to be stable (i.e. it doesn't black) out or blink every time you touch the camera) then carefully glue the eyecup back on and use your preferred method to stick the EVF in it's parked position. I use thin double-sided adhesive foam jointing tape: if you live near a modelling shop or know a radio control modeller, ask for a piece of thin servo tape.
The bad news is that this repair will not last and that you'll have to either learn to love the LCD panel or resign yourself to regular re-fixes, but eventually the damage progresses until beyond repair. For the same reason, if you replace it with a used example, go for the A200 instead. It has the same lens and many of the same features as the A2, although ditches many of the useful manual switches in favour of menu-driven settings.
If you are lucky enough to actually obtain a complete and unused flexible pcb then expect three things: 1. it will cost more than the camera is worth; 2. it will cost far more than that to have it fitted; 3. it WILL fail unless you stick the EVF down permanently as Minolta never revised the design. You probably won't find the part though as Minolta pretty well exhausted the spares supply whilst making repairs under warranty.
The same fault occurs to pretty much all cameras which have articulated displays, whether EVF or LCD and is why top-spec cameras aimed at professional users omit this feature. Pro's want reliability and give their gear a hard time, so articulated gadgetry is a liability.
It's a real shame as the A2 was otherwise my near-perfect all-rounder. In my case I only encountered the problem after buying a broken A2 for spares (just for the rubber eyecup and a few minor parts) and just a few weeks after investing in the rare, expensive and vital BP-200 battery grip. I've stopped using mine altogether now as I simply cannot get to grips with composing on an LCD panel.
Sorry this isn't all good news, but hopefully you'll find my posting to
be of use and will be one of the lucky ones whose DIY fix lasts. Feel free to ask me for further advice and please don't forget to rate my answer.
Thus meaning what display on the LCD is exactly what "enters" through the lens. Is this a hairline or thick line appearing on the LCD and does the same happen on the photos/pictures when they are downloaded on a PC? If so "something" could have infiltrated into/onto the camera lens....
Sorry, you have a defective LCD panel. If your TV is still under warranty, contact Sharp to get the TV exchanged. Otherwise, LCD panels cost more than the TV is worth.
Yes it is. I believe Panasonic knows that the built in flash casts a very blue tint so they set the flash WB to very red to compensate. Therefore before the flash is triggered as when you watch the LCD. Some threads here even suggested adjust the WB further 2 knots to the red manually (press " up" a few times on the 4-way button to have better skin tone. Try it. The setting stays even when you turn off the camera.
Recording a movie of a subject that is brightly lit by the sun or some other very bright light source can cause vertical lines or bars to appear in the image during playback. This is due to a CCD phenomenon called "smearing." Note that lines or bars appear in movie images only, but not in snapshots. Smearing does not indicate malfunction of the camera.
Current LCD display technology can reproduce about 300 different levels of brightness. Brightly lit scenes or light sources may exceed this brightness range, causing a temporary disruption (artifacts) in the live display. Artifacts are part of the display, but they are not part of your recorded image. If you take a picture while you see artifacts on the screen and then display the picture on the LCD, you will no longer see the artifacts.
It's about and 2 years old.
All the components on the PCBs are surface mounted.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I'll try it out and let you of the outcome.
There are no visible leakages on any of the capacitors. Replacing them is not going to be easy as all the components are placed quite close to each other. Might damage the other parts near by.
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