Over heating second time in two days all the coolant goes to the over flow jug, goes till no coolant left in the rad? thermostat no good maybe dont know?

it could be you have an air lock in the cooling system
remove the rad cap from the rad, start the engine and let it run until the coolant drops (add to fill it back up) or until the coolant boils out of the rad spout.

maybe pull the heat sensor. -replace it OR clean it off, reinstall it.

no, not special but you failed to stated engine, there are many engines.
and some are very tricky here, like 2.0L.
First state the symptoms,
your post states its overheating, then no heat. (why?)
old post. but others might
Ill post , overheating ,
Example if me, with overheat.
I see my dash gauge, show overheating and engine power drops and pings, then steam vents from the rad, cap?
Over heating (ill skip cab heater but on 2L this path blocked causes thermostat to go quite nuts. not posting engine, makes this hard.)
1: full of 50% AF (antifreeze)
2: new thermoSTAT they age and fail fast. so get a new one.
put STAT in with the wax slug down, and jiggle bleed pin forward.
get air out of system after filling, (RTM)
start car, and....
4: then using and IR pyro gun we then check that
the thermostat housing hits 170F min. but not too hot.
run motor till top rad hose gets too hot to touch 180f is normal.
I had to drive 10 miles, to get it up to 180F.
my car has the hotter, 195 STA,T so runs at 195f. (helps cooling)
USING the pyro gun , the top and bottom of each rad tube.
This tool is Amazing.... and saves burn hands.
if the bottom of any RAD tube is way less than the others?, that is
a clogged UP rad tube. solution is , NEW RAD.
Usually rad repairs, are more costly than new. IN USA.
The water pump must spin at full speed, belt tight.
The impeller or some suz, motors likes disappear. from electrolysis action. so not looking at the impeller is a FAILURE on the mechanic side.
if this car has 2.0 I-4 (4 banger) it has a coolant tube on the rear
of the STAT housing, this tube must flow coolant at all times.
if it dont, the thermostat , will go nuts.
nuts means, that insufficient flow passes the thermostat wax block
causing the thermostat to cycle in a wild and random way.
I dont like this design but is reality. If applicable.
post country, post engine type and state the symptoms.

YOU NEED BLEED AIR OUT THE COOLING SYSTEM.WAIT TO ENGINE COOL DOWN.YOUR VECHICLE YOU HAVE TO POUR COOLANT IN THE COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STAY AT THE FULL COLD MARK.THEN START ENGINE LET IT IDLE A FEW MINUTES WATCH COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW JUG WHEN IT DROPS ADD MORE COOLANT UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STAY AT FULL COLD MARK.WHEN COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING IN OVERFLOW JUG.SCREW RADIATOR CAP BACK ON OVERFLOW JUG WATCH ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE AS COOLANT TEMPERATURE START CLIMBING TURN OFF ENGINE LET IT SET A WHILE KEEP FROM GETTING SCALDED.TAKE LARGE RAG PLACE OVER COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG CAP SLOWLY OPEN RADIATOR CAP A LITTLE AT A TIME UNTIL PRESSURE RELEASE.REMOVE OVER FLOW JUG CAP.ADD MORE COOLANT UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL AT THE FUL COLD MARK ON THE OVERFLOW JUG.THEN SCREW CAP BACK ON THE OVERFLOW JUG.START ENGINE LET IT IDLE AGAIN WATCH ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE WHEN TEMPERATURE GAUGE START CLIMBING.TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT A WHILE.CHECK COOLANT LEVEL IN THE OVER FLOW JUG.DO THIS PROCEDURE UNTIL THE COOLANT LEVEL IN THE COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG STOP DROPPING AND STAY AT FULL COLD MARK,WHEN THE TOP RADIATOR HOSE GET HOT THERMOSTAT OPENING AIR IS OUT THE COOLANT SYSTEM. WHEN ENGINE COOLS DOWN.CHECK COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG COOLANT MUST BE IN THE COOLANT OVER FLOW JUG AT THE FULL COLD MARK WHEN ENGINE COLD. DONT .DONT OVERFILL COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG.KEEP COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW JUG IF YOU LET COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG RUN DRY AIR WILL BE DRAW IN COOLANT SYSTEM CAUSE ENGINE TO OVERHEAT.

It probably got overfilled at some point. There's a max line on the reservoir that you shouldn't fill it over. Coolant expands as it heats up so if there's too much in the system, it's normal for it to overflow.

BLEED AIR OUT COOLANT SYSTEM.WAIT UNTIL ENGINE COOL DOWN.REMOVE COOLANT OVER FLOW PRESSURE CAP.IF YOU HAVE 3.1 OR 3.4 ENGINE OPEN AIR BLEED SCREW ON WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE.OPEN BLEED SCREW.WATCH COOLANT IN OVER FLOW AS YOU OPEN BLEED SCREW COOLANT WILL DROP IN OVER FLOW JUG. AS IT DROPS CLOSE BLEED SCREW ADD MORE COOLANT IN OVER FLOW JUG DO THIS UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STAY AT COLD FULL MARK.WHEN DONE TIGHTEN BLEED SCREW DONT OVER TIGHTEN IT OR IT WILL STRIP OUT BREAK.CRANK CAR UP UNTIL THERMOSTAT OPEN THAT WHEN TOP RADIATOR HOSE GET HOT.WATCH COOLANT GAUGE,IF ENGINE TEMPERATURE RISES TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT UNTIL COOL.REMOVE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP USING A RAG TO KEEP FROM GETTING HANDS SCALED.ADD MORE COOLANT IF NEEDED WHEN ENGINE COOLANT STOP DROPPING IN OVER FLOW JUG AND ENGINE DONT OVER HEAT AIR IS OUT OF COOLANT SYSTEM.

Start the engine when cool, remove rad cap and start engine and let it run with the heater on. (not defrost) Top up coolant as needed in rad, and let it run until either the rad fan comes on and off 2 or 3 times, or you can see increased flow in rad from thermostat opening. It will obviously happen after it reaches operating temperature, so watch after gauge gets close to there. Wait until you see that flow 2 or 3 times or fan comes on and off before you put cap on, and fill return bottle to proper level as well. That should cure it, by getting air out of system, and coolant flowing through heater core.

Did you re-fill coolant with heater turned on ?(not defrost) Leave rad or coolant return bottle cap off when engine cold, and turn heater on and add coolant as needed to keep level up. Let engine get to normal operating temperature, and wait for rad fan to kick in and out, indicating thermostat has opened, and coolant is circulating. Let that fan kick in 2 or 3 times and keep adding coolant as needed, and check heat periodically to see if starting to throw heat. When your getting good heat, put cap back on, top up return bottle, and you should be good. I suspect an airlock in heater core. I don't see the year anywhere so I'm guessing you have a rad cap, and if that is the case, leave it off as described, and watch for increased flow in rad when it gets up to normal operating temperature, which tells you thermostat is opening. Watch for that flow, 2 or 3 times, and you should be getting heat by then. If that isn't cure, get back to me with more info on year, engine etc. Keep me posted on your progress.

Start vehicle when cold. remove rad cap, start engine & put heater on (not defrost) and let it run for a while & top up rad as coolant goes down, to about an inch or 2 from top of rad. If you have electric rad fans, watch temperature gauge and around normal operating temperature or slightly above, they should come on for a minute or 2 then shut off. If not electric fans, just watch in top of rad for increased flow through rad, indicating thermostat has opened & coolant is circulating. Rev engine slightly every once in a while for 5 or 10 seconds just to help increase flow etc to help assist bleeding air out faster. Watch for increased flow in rad, 2 or 3 times at least, or listen for fan to go on & off 2 or 3 times before putting rad cap back on. As your doing this, keep topping up rad if it needs it. Make sure rad cap on all the way, check coolant return bottle level & add to mark if required, and you should be good to go. One of the things people forget to do the most, is to turn heater on while doing this, and that is usually what causes a lot of airlocks in the system, so don't forget that step.

Start it cold with rad cap off, and heater on high heat, and let it run until you see increased flow in radiator, indicating thermostat opened & engine reached operating temperature. Rev engine slightly every once in a while and hold it there for 10-20 seconds, just to help purge air better/faster. Watch rad flow again, and wait until you see increased flow 3 or 4 times. Then top up coolant in rad to an inch or 2 from top of rad, and put cap back on. Top up return bottle to appropriate level on bottle & then try it again. If it still heats up, get back to me. Does it overheat at all times? Rad fan is good i take it?

That's probably coming out of your coolant return bottle. With rad cap off & engine cool, look at your level in the rad, if necessary top it up to an inch or so from top. Start engine, turn heater(not defrost) on and let it run until up to normal operating temperature. Keep an eye on temperature gauge & rad level. When it's at normal, watch for good flow going through rad when thermostat opens. after flow slows down,(thermostat closes) top it up if needed. If you watch 2 or 3 times for flow, and gauge doesn't go over normal, then put cap back on, then fill bottle only to mark for warm or hot engine, with coolant. If gauge goes up over normal from there, replace thermostat, and I'd get a new rad cap too. If that has electric cooling fan, make sure it comes on shortly after you see thermostat open & coolant flowing through rad.