Ti lite mAnual chair. hub rubs on axle and i am not sure how to lengthen the axle to hold hub further away...

Looks like you have your answer. most toyota's I have dealt with were full floaters, no lock ring needed. good luck

I fixed this problem; I pulled the wheel and removed the axle nut and sprayed penetrating lube around the axle and put it back together- problem fixed... I also took the rim apart and sprayed rust preventive on the inside of both wheel halves because water can get in there from washing the dog stuff off the wheels (yeah you know). I wanted to pull the hub and have a look but it must take a puller because tapping on it with a brass hammer did nothing. So make sure the axle nut is tight...Jazzy 1450 but should be the same on others...

sounds like it may be a couple things, this this is a five year old post, this is for other users. In your case the wheel may not be seated in the dropouts correctly, loosen the quick release or axle nuts and pull the wheel as far back in the drop outs as it will go and retighten. If it is still rubbing then the drop outs them selves are out of alignment. Most competent LBS's (local bike shop's) have a set of drop out H tools that are used to check front and rear drop out alignment and can be used for minor adjustment of the drop outs. In a more extreme case the frame could be out of alignment or one of the drop outs could have been welded incorrectly and the frame sneaked past the manufacturers quality control processes. When rebuilding your hubs make sure there is an equal amount of axle protruding from each side of the hub to insure that it is centered properly. Some hubs use 8, 9, or 10 bearings, as long as they all fit in the hub race without binding or overlapping (so to speak) you are ok and they are easy to loose. I use a telescoping magnet to extract them from the hub when I rebuild. Most LBS's will sell you new bearings, just take the old ones in and they will have a tool to measure the diameter to provide you with the right size. One more thing; there are standard drop out spacing sizes, measured on the inside faces of the drop outs, and depending on how many speeds your rear wheel has. 6-7 speeds is 120mm on older bikes from the 80's and before. Most bikes today have 135-145mm spacing to accommodate the larger gear clusters of 8,9,10,11 speeds.

The "C" clip holds the hub on the axle. No it is not a press fit.

The washers go on, then the sleeve, the "C" clip holds it all on the axle.

No fuse wont help, this sounds like the 4wd is engaged, the front axle hubs need to be checked or the front axle actuator may be stuck, there are a few things that can cause this problem and if its all wheel drive that makes things harder to check out, soory theres no easy fix without having it looked at.also make sure all the tires have the proper amount of air in them 35psi is good, hope this helps.

Loosen both front wheel lug nuts and raise car and support on jack stands. Remove wheels and have a friend hold brake pedal down and remove axle nut. Use a chisel or screwdriver to remove stake on nut to axle edge. I use a 3/4 drive set socket and remove axle nut. Rent it from Autozone. Remove caliper assy and support with coat hanger or bungee cord to hold weight of assy off of brake hose. Remove Cotter pin and nut on lower control arm. Separate with ball joint fork and pull strut assy away to the side while pulling stub axle through and out of the way. Remove 4 bolts holding rotor and hub assy. on the inside of steering knuckle and separate. Now remove 4 bolts on hub's outer side and separate rotor and hub. You can use a bar or large screwdriver between wheel studs to loosen the 4 bolts.

replace the entire CV axles. Support vehicle with jackstands by frame. Remove front wheels. Remove axle nuts. Remove lower balljoint nut. Separate balljoint from nuckle by banging hard with ball peen hammer on knuckle on spindle assy. Remove outer tie-rod nut. Separate tie-rod from steering nuckle by bangin on nuckle with ball-peen hammer. Use long pry bar to hold lower control arm down while simultaneously pulling hub/spindle assembly away from vehicle and pushing axle through hub toward transaxle. Go under vehicle and pry inner cv joint away from transaxle while holding axle assembly.
Install new CV axle in reverse of the disassembly.

I found a website that explaned that you can remove the hub and dust cover, inside is a spring which holds the hub out, removing this spring and replacing the rubber dust cover and hub will lock your front hubs in continious. as is done on later models, This has worked for my 98 4wd

You have a bad wheel bearing, when you turn away from the bad bearing the wheel bearing is un-loaded and quiets down.