I have a Sears Kenmore electric dryer manual 417 82142101. How do remove the back panel. I removed the screws insdie the drum and the heating element has shifted so that the screw holes do not line up. I think I have to remove the back panel to shift the heating element.

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under the lint screen on the top of the dryer there are 2 screws. remove these screws. aong the edge where the front of the top of the dryer meet the top of the front of the dryer there are 2 clips. press in the clips with a putty knife to raise the top. look inside you will see 2 screws that go into the front of the dryer. remove thoughs screws and the front will lean forward and lift off. there you will be able to put belt around the drum, tension pulley and motor pulley

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer

If you go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

SOURCE: sears kenmore dryer 11064602300

Check the power input. perhaps one of the hot legs is not working. When I say this I mean that the dryer is plugged into a 240V receptacle (if you live in North America). This means that each of the hot slots are 120V. The heating element uses both of these for a total of 240V, but the controls use only one for 120V. The element may seem to be working, but it could be only half-voltage.

Or it could be a faulty timer circuit.

SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Dryer 110.62922100/Runs but no heat

remove the lower front panel. the element is right there with all the access screws and wires. check the thermo relay also known to go bad..................

SOURCE: Stacked SEARS DRYER MODEL NUMBER 417-82142101

with 2 people. There are 2 white caps towards the bottom of the dryer hiding 2 screws. remove the screws and tilt the dryer back about 2 inches, while tilted back pull the whole dryer foward and it will free the dryer from the brackets in the back.