Installing combination gfci /switch - Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart lock GFCI Outlet

GFCI's don't usually come with a switch.

You have a short somewhere?
If you have AFCI (arc fault) instead of GFCI, then there is probably a loose wire
Troubleshoot steps on following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

Gene

Water Heater Timers Save Money

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

What device are you replacing... a switch or a outlet?

1) If you are replacing a switch with 3 or 4 wires?
That is either a 3-way switch, 4-way switch, or a DPDT switch and cannot be replaced with GFCI

2) If you are replacing outlet with 4 wires, then it can be replaced with GFCI combo.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#8

3) If you are replacing ordinary single-pole switch, then you can replace with GFCI combo IF the box has a neutral wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#6

4) You can install GFCI protection on any circuit by installing GFCI earlier in the circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html


Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Copy following link for wiring gfci
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

2) Add a comment March 2013 and say what voltage you are wiring, and what the wires connet to.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If it worked before, it should be a wire to wire replacement. You are replacing a regular switch/outlet with another switch/outlet which just happens to be a GFI outlet.
Wire the old switch wires to the new switch and the old outlet wires to the new outlet.
Cut the breaker/s off first !!

Copy following for wiring diagrams showing GFCI combo switch-outlet
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I believe the GFCI is only meant to protect the receptacle. Plig something into it and try the test button and it should work as expected.

If the switch is an integral part of the GFCI outlet then it shouldn't need wiring.
I'm running on the assumption that your outlet is the same as those I have installed myself...
To wire a switch AFTER a GFCI...
There should be two brass coloured and two silver coloured screws on the outlet. The power from your panel attaches to the screws marked LINE and the wires that go to the switch are attached to the screws marked LOAD. This protects anything plugged into the outlet as well as the "fixture" served by the switch.
One VERY important issue is the grounding...Cut yourself a small (7" should do, 10" is about the limit) of bare groundwire from a spare piece of cable and marrette this "pigtail" with the two ground wires inside the box, then attach the end of the "pigtail" to the green screw on the GFCI.
As an added safety step, I run the "pigtail" around the green screw of the outlet and the ground screw of the metal box you're working in.
The wiring then goes to the switch where the black wire can be cut, then each end is wired to the screws and the white wire is continuous to the fixture

power coming in from the breaker box: black wire will go to line-hot screw, and the white wire will go to the line-white screw. the switch wires coming out of the back of the gfci- 1 will go to the load-hot screw & the other black wire will wire nut to the black wire going to the light. the white wire going to the light must go to the load-white screw.

power coming in from the breaker box: black wire will go to line-hot screw, and the white wire will go to the line-white screw. the switch wires coming out of the back of the gfci- 1 will go to the load-hot screw & the other black wire will wire nut to the black wire going to the light. the white wire going to the light must go to the load-white screw.