My 16" Ranger had the same problem. Here's how to fix it. Take off the top cover and the red side cover to acess the carburator. Take the top off the carb; there is a single screw that holds it on. Inside you will see a 10mm round indention. This is a final screen fuel filter. Mine had a layer of light brown dirt over the screen. Take a small screwdriver and carefully scrape the dirt off. You don't need to clean the carb any further or adjust the H and L settings or anything. Put it back together and it should run with no bogging. down.
Remove the exhaust by undoing the three 10mm nuts on the front of the muffler. Remove the deflector from the exhaust outlet and check the spark arrester screen for blockage as this is usually the cause of low power if the saw does a lot of small jobs or is idling a lot.
Hello Laid; Is this your saw "UT-10926 Ranger 33cc 16" Chain Saw"?
I am a little confused by your question. Does the chain stop rotating?
Or the engine just stumbles and slows? Please use the reply below and together we can solve this. Lou
Sorry I meant to make this CR.
If the clutch is worn to the point it is slipping and stopping the chain go here:
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/discla... - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. Find and open "Ranger 33cc 16" Chain Saw UT-10926" See the "Clutch - Hand Guard - Drive Case Cover" print, item 16 has the clutch face.
If your saw it has an inboard clutch, start to access the clutch like this:
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSS...
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.
Remove the remainder like this:
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNU... Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If the engine is just bogging down under load the "H" needle valve is most likely a little lean try 1/8 turn CCW no better 3/16 CW. the carburetor can be tuned for performance as follows:
Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tun... CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou
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Your blade is pinched, and your running your clutch. Sharpen those blades and pay attention to you first undercuts. Homelites are preety much lightweights as far as chainsaws go, but the price is right. You have to be a pretty good cutter to not get into trouble with a 16inch gasser 2 stroke.
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the sproket may be worn out
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