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If you've had the back off it may be this.....there are two grey plastic prongs sticking out of the back of the casing, when you've put it back on they haven't gone into the two lugs that are on the back of the cog, this affects the two cogs lining up.you may have to pull the cog up a little to line them up when you put the back on, the cogs should line up again as long as the prongs have gone into the lugs. Hope this this helps.
check to see if there is a plate on the end of the cog that keeps the belt on
if so remove those plates and then slide the new belt on both cogs evenly
refit the plates
has the cog seperated or snapped off the wheel as in can you freeturn the wheel and make the cog go around or does the wheel spin but the cog doesnt move, if so your up for a new rear wheel/cog
check the tooth profile on the drive cog and the cog on the wheel
if they are more spiky that properly formed as in a new cog
then what is happening is that the pitch of the cog has altered from wear and the pitch of the chain ( distance between link pin centers ) is no longer compatible so the chain tends to ride up on the teeth and then clicks back in place
the fix is a new chain and cogs or if the teeth are good , just a new chain
start of by running chain over top of rear sprocket so sprocket turns anticlockwise around and over top of top cog then between top and bottom cog so chain is round back of bottom cog then under bottom of front chain wheel up and around antyclockwise through front gear mech if you have one then join 2 ends together with link extractor.
Found this on another site (fixed4free.com) posted by Dave in Jan 2009:
This is one of those things where a picture would be worth a thousand words, but as I can't put pictures on this site, the words will have to do! - Turn the orange cog anti-clockwise as far as it will go, (putting the nozzle to direct the water to the conditioner drawer) - Look closely at the orange cog and you'll see that the last-but-one tooth at each end of the row is shorter than the rest. Looking from above and standing at the front of the machine, I call the rightmost tooth on this cog number 1, the short tooth number 2 etc. (my cog has 17 teeth) - Position the white cog so that (looking from above) the leftmost tooth on the top (incomplete) row of this cog is between teeth 2 and 3 of the orange cog. This should be such that if the white cog rotates anti-clockwise it will turn the orange cog. Now the difficult bit: - The shaft that the yellow cog fits on has four vertical 'webs' running down it. Look closely and you'll see that one of these is bigger than the other three. As you would expect, if you look carefully at the centre of the yellow cog it has three small slots and one bigger one spaced around the hole. - This shaft can be VERY CAREFULLY rotated if you pull it gently upwards against it's spring and wiggle it while twisting it. NEVER force it, the cogs underneath are VERY fragile. If it won't turn, just let go, and try again. - Look again at the white cog, and you'll see that two of the teeth on the lower (complete) set of teeth have no slot between them, they make a tooth that is 'double width'. - Look at the yellow cog and you'll see that it has a 'double width' slot on it's lower row. - The challenge is to rotate the yellow cog's shaft so that you can fit the yellow cog on it, aligning the double-width slot on the yellow cog with the big tooth on the white cog. This is just a case of trial and error, but is the key to getting everything back together.
COMPLICATED BIT OF EXPLANATION!! The yellow cog only ever turns clockwise and the white cog is a clever bit of engineering allowing AEG to move the nozzle (orange cog) backwards and forwards across the five positions. The yellow cog turns the orange cog anti-clockwise until it runs out of teeth, then the white cog turns the orange cog the other way. After a full rotation of the yellow cog, the orange one has moved clockwise to the stain-treatment position and the by-pass beyond, then anti-clockwise back to the conditioner position.
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