Ge profile 7.5 dryer front loading how to vent on the right (gas)

the clip that holds the fan on the back shaft of the motor may have broken so the fan isn't turning, check that , but first check the duct and make sure that you don't have a ball of lint clogging the vent,, also check the venting all the way out of the house,, clean the overhang of the outside vent cover, they get moist and collect lint

The general rule of thumb when it comes to dryer vents is the SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the run, the better the appliance will be at drying efficiciency. The more bends and rises you add to a vent line, the more resistance you add to the blower motor. If the blower motor cannot efficiently force all the lint and moisture out of the vent line it tends to accumulate and clog. This eventually leads to poor drying results and an appliance that will overheat the point of failure. Dryer vents that run into an attic or crawl space are generally the worst configurations. The blower fights gravity with attic installations and sags under a crawl space can create choke points that clog. The following link can give you some advice on the dryer vent installation recommendations:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574332-dryer_ducting_installation_advice

Roughly...60 feet if the vent is just a straight. With each added turn, the maximum distance changes. If you need further assistance, please let me know.

In alot of cases, it's your dryer vent. Does it have enough airflow? Is it clogged up? If you're using the foil flex vent or worse, the plastic vent, then it may be crushed preventing the proper airflow needed. First thing first, pull your dryer out and check the venting. Take it off by removing the clamp, either it is a spring clamp that you can remove with your fingers or its an auto clamp that you will need a crewdriver for. If there is alot of buildup in the vent then it needs to be replaced. Look into the back of the dryer, is there anything in the dryer itself that is blocking airflow. I have seen may times where money, paper, even dishrags get sucked down in the venting area and constrict the airflow. If your venting does not go straight out of the wall then you may need to check the rest of the venting that runs throughout the house. There are service people that will come out and clean these for you, however not sure of the cost. Depending on your sitaution, you may be able to replace this yourself as it is quite easy. I have seen people with 30-40 ft length venting and the airflow pressure just isn't there no matter what dryer you're using. If this is the case, then your venting needs to be checked often.

If you are crushing your vent then I would suggest going to the local Home Depot, Lowes, etc.. and buy the semi rigid venting with a swivel elbow. This vent is very hard to crush and with the swivel elbow, it allows you to move the dryer back and forth without popping off the vent if you ever need to get behind of it for cleaning, etc... This vent is also top of the line and is mandated by major install companies throughout the nation. The only drawback is that it may stick your dryer out another 1-2 inches, but from a safety standpoint, it is the best on the market.

Unfortuantely, if it's not the vent then a service tech would have to be called to come and check it out. With the Harmony Profile series, I wouldn't call just any mom and pop service company. That series has very unique parts so I would get someone recommended by the manufacturer. Call GE at 1-800-GE CARES, they should be able to help you regardless if its under warranty or not. GE keeps parts for 30 years on every model product that they make, I couldn't see them not trying to help. Good luck.

Dryer turn on makes a humming noise intermitantly and won't dry at all have changed coils. It's not the fuse or vent. Help??

The operating coils get hot and quit. They only cost 20 bucks. Read more about it here:
Gas dryer works then quits then works some more


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

you should check the back vent on your wall have you had any rain lately some times the strong rain will go down the back wall in the vent if broken

first is first ,,, disconnect dryer from plug,, now open bottom panel 2 screws ,, now go and get youre vaccum,shop vac, anything ,, reason for burning smell ,, usually catching on fire ,, we recommend do this 1 as year,,, after cleaning , put about 2-3 fabric sheets inside dryer and let it runn for about 30 minutes to remive smoke from drum,,, thank you

To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in.
Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.

DLE2532W is an electric heat model. (a gas model would be a DLG......) To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in.
Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.

rear and side vents only option no machine top vents. although you can gain acces to venting through the middle panel on that unit for slightly easier mounting