Denon dra-375rd fuse keeps blowing even with no speakers attached the speakers may have been wired wrong in the past eg 2 8ohm speakers running off one terminal

The Denon DRA-697CI is a stereo receiver. Typically, the fuse size for electronic devices like stereo receivers is listed in the device's manual or on a label near the power input. It's important to use the correct fuse size to ensure proper protection against electrical faults.
Without specific information about the fuse size for the Denon DRA-697CI, I recommend consulting the device's manual or contacting Denon's customer support for accurate information. Using the wrong fuse size can potentially damage the device or pose a safety hazard, so it's crucial to verify the correct specifications.

i have an old Sony N350K stereo where wires are inserted into neg and positive spaces for the L and the R speaker however no sound comes through on any mode eg. tuner, tape or CD

Most subs are 4 ohm cabinets. That being said, if you added this to one of the channels alone, fine. If added while another speaker was also connected (A+B mode) and the other was a 4 ohm cab as well, then yes, you probably smoked that channel. The two 4-ohm cabs in parallel like that appear to the amp like a 2-ohm load. This amp is designed for a 4-ohm load minimum. It is likely that the output stage overheated and damaged the output transistors. I would have expected the amp to go into protect mode though. Let the receiver cool down and try again. If it works, then the problem is the low load and removing the sub will "fix" it. If not, then further examination of the output stage will be necessary.

Dan

There is a main fuse located either close to where the AC cord enters the unit or under a PC board attached to the transformer. In any case, it is unlikely that the fuse is the real problem. Is there a standby light at all or nothing at all? If there is a standby light, the fuse is fine. If the unit won't stay on or turn on, the problem could be a bad 5V supply or shorted outputs.

Please update this with any additional symptoms and I'll provide additional details.

Thanks,
Dan

tape 2 should have a "monitor" button that goes along with it.

turn it off and sound should return

your door on the in side has 4two5 rods inside to tell what it is you will have to take off the door panal and try wd-40

Thank you for responding. I called in an audio specialist to look at the whole system--he believes there is a problem with the amplifier. Will post what he finds out when he looks inside.

This almost always indicates a blown speaker. If you have an ohm meter you can use that to test the impedance on your speakers. After disconnecting the speaker - touch the red lead to one connector and the black lead to the other. If it reads something other than 8ohms that speaker is blown.
If you don't have an ohm meter you can simply disconnect one speaker at a time and run that way until the fuse blows. If the fuse never blows then you've found the suspect speaker.
Sometimes blown speaker can hide by stealth. When cold everything is normal. When things start to heat up from use the failed circuit shorts and blows the fuse on your amp.

Needs to be reset or fuse blown. Take to repair shop, cover has to be taken off and fuse replaced. You could fix it yourself but the warranty won't be honored. Do it yourself electronic shop should have a replacement fuse, may have to be soldered in place. Repair shop, should cost around $30.00 to $45.00 to fix, price of fuse $4.00 to $6.00. Your choice.

Hi....you may want to check the speaker fuse, located on the rear of the unit.. sometimes too small wattage speakers get hooked up and the speaker fuse will blow as to not hurt the speakers.
Hope this helps.
Squipps