Dishwasher fills, heats and doesn't spray normally. It sprays for a little at the beginning of the cycle and then stops for the rest of the cycle, no matter how long. I pulled the plug from the motor and tested the voltage while running it through the pump test. At first it read 120v, then it flashed to 20v and back to 120. It did it repeatedly, each time for longer on 20v, and then finally settled into a permanent 20v. That's not normal, right? Doesn't that, together with the fact that when connected, it sprays for a bit and then stops, suggest a control board problem? Hoping to get some feedback before investing in the board. Thanks! GE Model GDF620HGJ0BB
Check the start capacitor also. The rating of the capacitor will be written on it. Likely to be anywhere from 5uf to 15 uf. If the cap has failed, it wont start the pump properly. If you are having a voltage supply fault, its possible the board has failed.
Testimonial: "Thanks, but it doesn't seem to have a separate start capacitor. Is it possible that it is integrated into the motor assembly or on the control board? Are some dishwasher's like that?"
"Thanks, but it doesn't seem to have a separate start capacitor. Is it possible that it is integrated into the motor assembly or on the control board? Are some dishwasher's like that?"
(Appreciate your help, btw :) )
Not all capacitors are mounted on the motor. They can be fitted behind the kick panel. Check the wiring diagram. I haven't seen any with built in caps or on the PCB. Its possible it may be a DC inverter pump. I think LG brought these out a few years ago. These wont have a capacitor.
Thanks, Steve. I removed the motor/pump and opened the case. The capacitor is in there inside the motor housing (250 v, 220 uf).
The motor housing was filled with a black dust. Normal?
I tested resistance on the pins that connect to the control board. It was 15 M. Ohms... not good, right?
Bypassing the circuitry inside the motor and testing just the terminals of the motor itself, it was 60 something ohms.
Hi Michael, black dust could be anything. I forgot you have 110VAC. Im in Australia, 240VAC. The start caps here are at least 440VAC.and 5 to 15uf is common on dishwashers. Yours being rated at 220uf seems really high. f its 2.2 or 22uf. You would need a meter to read the capacitance to confirm if its OK. 15 megohms on a winding should be ok. If there was no resistance, it would mean a dead short on the windings. Short of trying a new cap, I don't know what else you could check. If the cap is inside the motor housing, you will probably find that a replacement motor comes complete with a cap and ready to fit.
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SOURCE: Dishwasher Repair
It could be a motor or a pump issue. The dishwasher has a motor that attached to a pump which forces the water up into the sprayer arms and during the drain cycle, it pushes the water out of the dishwasher. The motor (and pump) located beneath the dishwasher. Check if motor spins. In case it spins, the problem is with the pump ,in case it doesn't spin it could be a motor problem or a motor and pump problem. Good luck
SOURCE: dishwasher pump will drain but not force water into spray arms
If the washer is not used regularly the shaft can stick to the seals and prevent the motor from spinning. This happens quite regularly for me if I don't use the washer often. You can just take off the bottom panel - after shutting off power to the dishwasher - and access the motor. you should see some fins and then just try to spin the motor by hand. It usually takes about 90 degrees of rotation before the motor breaks free from the seal. You'll have to fight through the spring-like resistance created by the seal-shaft adhesion. After it breaks free the motor spins freely and you should be all set to go. I haven't found a more permanent fix for this other than running the dishwasher more regularly.
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune MAH5500BWW Will not spin
maytag neptune washers do have a motor problem and they have a kit to replace the motor and motor controller.
when the motor fails, it wont wash or spin. most units have a 5 year parts warranty and should be replaced with a free part, but you will have to pay an authorized servicer to do this.
if it is over 5 years then i would call maytag and see if they will help you with an authorization for repair.
most of the time they will provide the part for free. just call the 800 # and ask for help. they wont send you the part but might give you some help with the parts.
Just to review, the LG dishwasher family, including the LDS5811 has the Verio motor and the check valve that diverts water from the bottom rack to the top rack.
If the valve is blocked/jammed, this would cause the symptom you describe. The valve is visible from inside the DW after you open it up.
It is also possible that this motor has failed.
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin
Hey Cameron,
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;
The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.
Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.
I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079
I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at [email protected]. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich
Testimonial: "Awesome help and advice -- thank you to everyone!"
Hi
First make sure that nothing is blocking the drain pump
assembly located inside the lower front panel of the dishwasher. If the issue
returns after its cleaned then try to reset the dishwasher control by pressing
the HEATED DRY button and hold it for 15 seconds, if its still not resolved
then it means that the control board has gone bad and should be replaced. Hope
this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel
Hi,
I have an older dishwasher also and recently my wife also complained about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I am tried in vain to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installed them in minutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also found that if the heating element goes bad then that also can mess things up bad... So I would buy new spray arms, and also check out the heating element to make sure it is working... Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...
Dishwasher Spray Arms not Spinning
How to Buy Appliance Parts Online
A bad heating element causes many problems in dishwashers...
Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working
Dishwasher Maintenance
heatman101
jklfryyr
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