SOURCE: fuel hoses routed wrong on weed eater fuel tank
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=358795190&productCategoryId=1503820&brandId=0247&modelName=TRIMMER&diagramPageId=00002&componentDescription=CYLINDER/FAN%20HOUSING/CRANKCASE&documentId=P0303202&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list
SOURCE: lost manual for troy bilt weed eater mod#tb514cs 4cycle
I didn't find that exact one either, but recently had to work on my Yard Man 4-Cycle Straight Shaft and used a Troy-Bilt manual for a similar trimmer - worked great.
If you don't find yours at this site, maybe a similar one will work. It looks like the difference is the TB525 receives attachments. If you're trying to fix something right now, here's the manual for that one until you find yours:
http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/troybilt/big_red_tb575ss.html
SOURCE: replacing fuel lines on ryobi weed eater,need
This is an ongoing issue for users, and rightfully so. Small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then pushes any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Years ago on 2-stroke trimmers, primers were not even used,...you choked the carb with a slide lever and gravity let fuel enter the carb from above...a few pulls, a "pop"...slide it off of choke and away you went.
If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.
SOURCE: hOW TO REMOVE THE CLUTCH
Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face
Testimonial: "This is a comple description of what to do. Now i need to do it. Will see how it comes out. Guy fron Quebec, canada"
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