Need Schematic for thor california 2009 21 lrs, have a short in a leg of the blue power line that feeds the fridge, stove hood, sink light.

All are not working? Chances that all would go South at same time is remote. You need to check the schematic to see what power trunk feeds all of the plates. It is not being powered. Go back further and see just feeds the truck and you are on the way towards finding the hassle.

wow no year, 1988 to now. !!!

that means that feed is shorted,
the fuse blown prevented the for sure fire, if you bypassed that fuse.
the wires are shorted or the loads connected to it are shorted.
we find this easy by reading the schematic first.
to see what is there. on the feed.

no year, nor engine.size.
so its IMPOSSIBLE to answer, accurately at all.
this is a USA forum and we dont have ESCUDO's here. in USA.

our Vitara/sidekick/trackers are simular.

ill answer for 1995? (our cars simular)
our Vitara has the G16 engine
the dome fuse runs:

1. the DOME lights,
2. the PCM/ECU memory.
3. the radio memory
4. TCM memory if fitted with and automatic transimission
5. Cruise control if fitted. (opted)
6. and more.

to find all shorts we use an ammeter,

http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/blows-fuse.html


finds any short on any feed line. (12vdc power)

Should be correct. Maybe it power supply problems.

Have you verify that the line you connected are receiving power on both hot legs ( Red and Black) and that neutral White wire) is actually connected to ground? Use a voltage meter and ohm meter to to do your tests.

First, the GFI runs on house current aka shore power. Make sure you are plugged in! Most GFIs have a light showing power on.

Check your breaker - not a car type fuse - in the fuse panel. GFIs are nothing but a quick-disconnect in case of a short. (Quick description)

You really need a wiring diagram for this. Try and get one online or from the mfg.

Start by tracing back towards power source from GFI. Remove GFI and check for power on the wires. Be careful, it's 120vac house current. If you have power, replace the GFI. If no power, look at the diagram and proceed to the next outlet/GFI on the same circuit. You might have to go all the way to the power distribution panel. Sooner or later you will find the open wire. Might be nothing more than a screw vibrated loose disconnecting the power feed.

That unit is very small with every component within 3 feet of the pigtail/power cord.
A electric heater has heat strip/s
a switch and 2 thermal limiting devices, 1 auto resetting, the other not resettable or serviceable by the user, tending to not be an economically viable option.
There are 2 hot legs of power and an earth/ground wire feeding any home or most businesses, every wire in every unit is either 1 of the 2 coming in to the building, Line 1 and Line 2.

Now if you know the sequence of operation and can recognize the components, thus locate them and are familiar with each as to what terminal is what, there is no need for a wiring diagram to tell you that 2 legs of power feed each load, be it high, low voltage, AC or DC polarity.
Every circuit requires 2 sides/legs of power Line 1 and Line 2.
Beginning on Line 1 go through the switch, to the load/device,
and from the device/load we return to the opposite side/leg of power from which we began.
Now if you do not know this and do not recognize the components thus cannot locate them other than tediously following both legs of power all over to where you know it must be anyways! as the unit in no way resembles a wiring diagram I see no use for a wiring diagram for those who know or do nor know the trade.

Great to here it is fixed.

First, you need to provide the model number of the stove. Second, have you checked to make sure you have power on both legs of the 220V feed to the stove?

{SW1}---Light 1 switched leg to fixture 1
HOT wire (Line or Feed)----{
{SW2}---Light 2 switched leg to fixture 2

The wire supplying power to the switches will be connected to the "LINE" terminals tied together with a breakaway tab (common feed). The upper "LOAD" side terminal will output to the first light and the lower "LOAD" side terminal will output to the second light. The neutral (White) wires if present will be joined together (wirenut).

All electrical work should only be done by qualified individuals.

Probably one side of the power amp has shorted and there is likely several semiconductor transistors and other components requiring replacement, but this amp uses a stick IC power amp.

Copy/pasted from the music forum between the arrows, this is likely the problem in your unit:

>>The schematic is posted in the Enzo gallery at www.ampix.org

The 15 leg power IC on the heat sink is a TDA7293V - it is the power amp for the unit.

The chip with small board attached can be ordered from any Marshall dealer or from places like http://www.marshallparts.com/

I usually buy my 7293s from Mouser. They currently have 622 of them in stock and they sell for $6.48 each. Probably won't run out of them soon. << Hint for you: When powering this up after repair, insert a 100 watt light bulb in series with the line cord into the unit. This will act as a automatic reseting fuse which will save fuses if you haven't got all the "cancer" out of your failed amp. It will allow you to do troubleshooting by limiting the current to a safe value. Also, when replacing the TDA part, be sure and use heat sink compound under it and if an insulator was used, make sure you replace the insulator. ALSO clean the area of any soldering residue and flux BEFORE powering the amp again.

Sounds like you did everything right