How do I wire this up. I have 1 power coming in and that goes to a switch and then to a saw switch. Can I simplify this and if so what would be the right way to wire it. Need wiring diagram for dummies please. Thank you

This may be over simplified, but the principle is the main thing.
Power comes from battery to switch.
1st click should be ignition, so wire from that contact goes to coil.
2nd clich (this one returns to position 1 when you release the switch) is the one that activates the starter. There will be a heavy wire and a thin wire connected to the starter. This will be the thin one.
Hope this helps.

I don't believe any such diagrams exist for the public.

But , based on the following assumptions:
1. There are three wires coming out of the motor: Black, White and Green.
2. There is a single pole (spst) or double pole (dpst) switch that attaches to the saw chassis.

I can make the following conclusions:
You need a suitable 10-3 rubber coated power cord 8 or 10 feet long with a plug with ground that also has three wires the same color as the leads coming from the motor.
You will probably need to cut off a suitable section of the power cord to go from the switch mounting location to the motor. I'm not familiar with the saw but lets say 2' to 3' long. This wire should not be stretched at any point or loose enough that it would get caught on objects easily. Where the wire goes through holes in the saw base, those holes must have grommets or strain reliefs to protect the wire from abrasion and wear on the insulation.
The black wire ends from the motor and from the cord to the plug are to be routed through the switch so that operating the switch interrupts/connects current through the black wire.
If the switch is a double-pole switch, then the white leads are also attached to the second set of connectors on the switch. If the switch is single-pole, then the ends of the white wires are twisted together and connected with a suitable sized wire nut. The connection with the wire nut is then tightly wrapped with electrical tape. If the chassis where the switch is mounted is plastic or non-conductive, then the ends of the green wires are twisted together and connected with a wire nut, in the same way as the white wires, then wrapped tightly with electrical tape. If the switch is mounted to a conductive surface, then a 6" green pigtail wire is to be included in the wire nut binding the two green wires and the other end of the pigtail is to be fastened to the same conductive surface the switch is mounted on. All connections are to be contained in a suitable box and not exposed with a lid fastened in place.
The wires on the other end of the 2' to 3' lead is to be fastened similarly to the leads in the motor and the motor electrical cover plate must cover all connections.

The above instructions apply only if the assumptions listed at the beginning are correct. In any case, all wiring should be approved by a licensed electrician.

If you're lucky, there's a circuit breaker built into the table saw motor and a little red button somewhere on the motor to reset it.

When you re-wire it. know that the cord should have a black wire (hot), a white wire (neutral), and a green wire (ground).
When you wire the power cord to the switch, the black wire should be the one that goes directly to the switch contacts and gets disconnected when you turn off the switch. The white wire goes through the rest of the system up to the motor. The green wire grounds out the metal parts that you might touch.

If you have to replace the motor, get a 3450 rpm to 3600 rpm motor. Harbor Freight has one for about $140 before any discount.
I recommend at least 1.5 HP

If its just the on/off switch. The black wire from the 110Vac power supply goes to one side of the switch. The black wire from the motor goes to the other side of the switch. The remaining 2 white wires go together.( One from the powers supply the other from the motor)

There should be only 1 screw and one wire connecting the kill switch. The kill switch simply grounds out the ignition. So it is difficult to install improperly. The wire coming from the switch goes directly to the ignition module.

Very easy to tell the short wires go to the cord side. The longer ones go to the motor. The wire will be same color as the cord wires. They will come from the back of the switch as it sets in saw.

How many wires do you have? The switch is probably a 2 pole, On-Off. If you have 2 wires, connect them to two terminals on one side of the switch (use an ohm-meter to find which terminals make-break). If there are 4 wires, connect the black and white power cord wires to different sides of the switch. Then connect the two motor wires to the two remaining terminals. DO NOT CONNECT THE BLACK AND WHITE POWER WIRES TO THE MAKE-BREAK TERMINALS OF THE SWITCH. This creates a short in the power cord and will trip a breaker.

generally on opposite side of trigger white on top black on bottom and ground on trigger side bottom

If the wires are coming out of the switch portion & not the outlet, 1 goes to power the other goes to that color wire that goes to your light. All you are doing with a switch is cutting one side of your power, putting switch in completes the circuit when it is turned on. Or breaks the circuit when it is turned off. The other wires, power in & back to light get wire nutted together.

As a result of the power being on to the attached light I knew it was not a power source problem so I took the fuse area cover off(with the machine unplugged) and saw there were no loose connections in that area. I then removed the front control area where the two swithes for the saw and light were. I took off the two wires on the saw switch and then plugged the saw in and jumped the two wires together. The saw worked!!!!!!. I then changed the light switch over to the saw switch location and the switch works . It appears it was a faulty switch. Today I will call the Dremel 1-800- number and order a new switch.

Bernie Lutes