Question about Honda Garden
When I start the motor, it kinda wants to move forward without engaging the drive clutch, but doesn't move, just lurches slightly forward in place. When I engage the drive clutch, it won't self-propel. When I engage that clutch handle and hold it up against the top handle bar, then release it, it does not snap back down. It just slowly goes down, and does not go down the whole way. But the cable does move when the clutch handle is moved up or down. I recon either a bad belt, cable, or the gear box. I suspect the belt is stretched or has slipped off. Bad time of year for this. All help appreciated.
If belt is ok, then likely the rear wheel dogs have seized. Review the following PartsTree diagram, what they call ratchet key item 3.
When the mower is off, you would normally hear the dogs click as you pushed the mower. These get dirty from debris and then rust up and seize (no longer click). Once seized, the transmission drive shaft just spins inside the drive gear. Remove bolt wheel and wheel to access and clean out all the dirt and debris. Inspect inside side of rear wheel and verify wheel gear is in good condition. If all looks good then onto the drive gear. You could try penetrating oil, but if dogs are seized you'll likely need to remove the gear... the key is spring loaded so take not to loose the key and spring. They're small pieces and once they launch they may be lost forever.
I don't remember if the "cover" has to be removed. If it does, there are a lot of small parts, be careful not to loose and keep in correct order. Consult diagram frequently.
Posted on Mar 09, 2019
Replacing the drive wheel is the likely problem. The drive wheel has a geared/notched inside surface. I have extended the life on a drive wheel by grinding or cutting down the inside spacer hub, allowing the geared surface to contact the unused/not worn down, portion of the geared surface.
Posted on Mar 10, 2019
Testimonial: "Thank you, Doug. I should have mentioned earlier I checked that. Both the pinion gears and the gear surfaces on the inside of the rear wheels are in very good shape, edges are sharp, hardly any wear, and barely any debris in there."
The obvious choice here is to at least check the belt
Posted on Mar 08, 2019
Testimonial: "Belt appears intact and has decent tension. A tad dry but no visible cracks."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine and the Mower Model Numbers, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Engine Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. The Mower Model Numbers are Usually Located Under the Seat on a Sticker on the Body of the Mower.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Normally grass and debris are clogged under the belt/transmission cover, preventing the full engagement of the transmission cable/lever.
The cover is located on the topside, left front corner of the mower shell. Clean debris, try it again. If OK, re-install cover, If not, there is a cable adjustment (threaded portion with a nut on either side of a fastening arm) move the cable adjustment towards the rear, this will tighten the cable. Sometimes the cable assembly (includes the cable and the control box) needs to be replaced
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
I fixed the drive cable just yesterday. If the model is exactly hrx217hxa with the serial number between MAGA–1000001 and 139999 as mine is, it can be quite involved to replace the cable if this is the first time, because honda wants to replace the "control arm" as well. You can find a detailed instruction to replace the drive cable from the following link.
The part number that you need to order is 06225-VH7-305, which comes with a very brief instruction on how to replace based on the service manual (not the user manual). The above link will guide you to how to replace the cable, but since the transmission end of the cable changed, you need to replace the "control arm" as well. This requires to disengage the drive "belt", which is the first challenge. Once you disengage it, it is relatively straight forward to replace the "control arm" if you have the right tools (1/8" pin punch and a challen lock plier which are described in the instruction that came with the cable kit).
Engaging the drive belt back on is the biggest challenge in the whole process, unless you have the right tool to handle the powerful spring that pulls the whole transmission to give friction to the drive belt. I spent two hours to try to engage the belt without the right tool (probably you need a "brake spring tool"), and I finally did it.
The rest of the assembly process is straight forward if you memorize what you did for disassembly. The above link can help you as well.
I took pictures of every step, and am going to post it somewhere soon, but if you want to replace it soon, please send me a message if you need help.
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
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