My Trane XL1100 stopped blowing heated air. 6 blinks of light. Gas does not seem to light within unit. Unit makes brief buzzing sound from burner area before shutting down.

Good Afternoon Amanda,

I understand that your Frigidaire Affinity dryer, model# FAQE7001LW, is not heating as well as only running about 5-7 minutes of the cycle before shutting off. There are a couple things to check.

1)The gas supply valve is not open. Check to make sure that the gas valve is open.
2)The dryer does not have enough air supply to support the burner flame. Check with your local gas company to make sure that your dryer is installed correctly.
3)There is a possibility that your LP gas supply tank is empty or there has been a utility interruption of natural gas. Try refilling or replacing the tank.
If you are still having trouble with your dryer, I suggest giving it a hard reset, by either unplugging it or shutting the power off at your homes circuit breaker for 3-5 minutes. When power is restored, start any cycle. If you are still noticing that there is no heat and it stops 5-7 minutes into the cycle, I suggest contacting your local authorized technician. Hope this is helpful.

-Best Regards-
WP

need make and model numbers on both units.

Clean burner tube with proper brush, such as long spring type for bar-b-Q burner tube that are available at most hardware stores, and make sure you have new burner tube aligned properly (straight on) with brass orifice on gas control. Then be sure to adjust air shutter for nice blue flame, with little orange at tip. Do not give so much air that flame roars or jumps off the end of the burner tube. Too many people think more air, less fuel, but actually, when flame roaring and jumping off end of tube, the heat passes through faster and it takes longer to heat the water inside the tank. Like I said, only enough air to have quiet, steady blue flame. If your not giving it enough air, you'll see dark soot on trailer above water heater, which indicates burning too rich, need more air, or perhaps pilot is partially plugged. Pilot flame should also be blue, not yellow/orange. Small air intake hole on side of fitting just before pilot tube can get spider web, or debris in it as well. Use air to blow that out or a piece of wire like a paper-clip to clean inside that hole.

The LO/Filter light blinking is an indication of Flame Failure . It means the unit had a flame and then lost the flame signal to the PCB . Have the incoming gas supply checked for proper operating range . Also have the flame rod /burner areas checked for debris/sooting/dirty flame rod/ etc...Spiders have a way of getting inside the burner areas and misdirecting the gas flow in the burners . This is common on units that have been sitting dormant for long periods .
The 68/Filter/On lights blinking are an indication of an "overheating " situation . Inspect the overall unit inside the cabinet for any dirty issues(pet hair/dust/dirt/gasket integrity/etc...) .
These procedures should be done by a qualified service technician due to liabilities involving gas fired products !

Try the following step.....

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

dodgy relay possibly

Sounds like it could be a effiency function to warn you that the heat elements are on. Check your thermostat manual and see if you can turn this feature off. If this is not a feature then the thermostat may be wired wrong or something in the circuit may be trying to short out.

You will find an error code chart on the wiring diagram pasted to the reverse side of one of the panels. It will help you to know where to start looking for the issue. I am also sending you the sequence of operation to give you a few more pointers, read on.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

sounds like your drain is stop up in wich is filling your air swich up with water the causes a miss fire the indoor motor will run untill you turn it off when this happens

If your condenser blow air up through the top of the condenser and you are concern about rain water affecting the unit.

You can install a roof or rain hood about 4ft above the unit to keep the rain off, The unit must be able to blow air off without causing Hi head pressure to affect the unit, The condenser must breathe or desipate heat freely.

Tell me if your question answered or if it works for you.