I have a cub cadet LT1024, with a Kohler 24hp ELS725 motor. When I turn on my ignition key, there is a 2 second delay before the motor begins to crank. What is wrong with my tractor?

The symptoms you describe indicate a blown fuse or open connection between battery + and the ignition switch "B" terminal.

With ignition switch in the OFF position, check there is battery + voltage on both sides of the fuse and at the "B" terminal of the ignition switch.

Did you check your ignition switch ?

check for blown ignition circuit fuse

More than likely your carburetor has trash and stopped up and needs to be removed and cleaned. The reason it's doing that is because when you crank it the trash in the bottom of the bowl on your carburetor is shaken up and causes the obstruction and blocks the gas from going into the intake where it mixes with air and allowed to be sucked into the cylinders and ignited by the spark plugs. Hope this helps

sounds like dirty carb need to clean out or bad fuel silinoide

Because I didn't know they used 2 belts in the diagram on parts tree.com . I bought the 79" belt and not the 78" belt.

In most cases the hydrostatic drives are not made by the company tractor or lawnmower.
This is in the owners manual.

Hydrostatic Transmission
The hydrostatic transmission is sealed at the factory
and is maintenance free. The fluid level cannot be
checked nor can the oil be changed. Always keep the
area around the transmission cooling fan free of grass
and debris at all times

Cub Cadet LT1024 Operator Manual

How to Change the Hydrostatic Fluid in Cub Cadet Lawn Mower

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1GGGE_enUS385US385&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=cub%20cadet%20hydrostatic%20fluid%20change

I hope that this can help. Tom

you need to change thr hydr fliud in the transmission and the filter

I had a similar problem with my cub Cadet. It turned out that the Ignition Module on the engine was cracked. Motor started OK - but died as soon as a load (such as engaging the mower) was put on it.

These are not terribly hard to check, and/or change, yourself. Easy to get to once the motor shroud is removed.

My 25 HP Kohler engine has 2 modules. EXPENSIVE from the dealer - found MUCH better prices online.

You need to check that there is a 12volt supply from the low tention wire at the solinoid when the key is turned, if there is not either the switch is bad, or the wire from the switch is bad, or the fuse has blown.