No, most likely not a thermostat issue. Check input voltages first. If they fall within spec, then I would go that route: Coleman Mach RV Air Conditioners and Parts RV Air Conditioners Thermostats...
If you Google airxcel.com, you should get some options. to get either their literature or tech support and they should be able to help you.
SOURCE: coleman mach air
Time for a spring cleanning,, especially the drainnage system, filter,, front cooling coils-and the drain line! thank you-very-much!
SOURCE: coleman mach air conditioner in rv tries to start
“The voltage could be low – ”
a) Check the voltage between #1 on the
overload switch and the “R” terminal of the
compressor while it is not humming. This
voltage must be 115 volts domestic USA
models or 240 volts export/overseas models.
No less than minus 10% is allowable.
b) Check the voltage from “C” or “R” of the
compressor while it is humming (trying to
start). The latter reading will probably be
lower, but it still must be 103.5 volts
minimum domestic USA or 216 volts
minimum export/overseas models.
If the first reading is above 103.5V domestic USA and
the second is under 103.5V domestic USA, there is
too much voltage drop in the lines - a situation which
must be corrected for the air conditioner to perform
safely and satisfactorily.
2. “A capacitor could be shorted, weak or open.”
Turn the power off.
Caution – There is always a chance that a capacitor is
holding a residual charge, so before touching a
terminal, discharge the capacitor as explained earlier
in this booklet.
Remove capacitors, visually examine them and test
them per instructions given in earlier section on
capacitor testing (See page 9).
If the capacitors test OK, replace them and carefully
reconnect the wires. Be sure the wires are connected
to the right terminals.
3. “Start relay contacts could be open – ” if so equipped.
Turn off all power, then check for continuity with
ohm meter between terminals 1 & 2.
4. “Compressor start winding could be open or
grounded.”
Check compressor windings per instructions. See the
section on the compressors (See page 8).
5. “Compressor could be mechanically stuck.”
This very rarely occurs and when it does, it is usually
after a lengthy shutdown. This should be considered
only after all the above possible causes have been
positively eliminated. To free a stuck compressor, use
your hermetic analyzer according to the
manufacturers instructions.
SOURCE: Mach III Air Conditioner: i have a coleman mach I rv air conditioner. Last ...
Hi, its very possible the capacitor is open or shorted. Look it over to see if it is leaking oil or swollen or even deformed. When installing a new condenser fan motor, they should sell you a new run cap with it. Its probably a 5 uf 370 volt cap and you can have it checked to see if its putting out the right amount of micro farads. If it shows any of the signs I have said, the cap is bad and you will need a new one. Does the motor spin free? If you have a meter, a digital is best, you can check to see if the motor is open or shorted to ground. Set the meter on continuity, and check each lead to ground. If it is open, your meter will show no reading. If shorted to grd, you will have a reading or a beep if your meter has that option on it. This is how you will know. If it would be best for you to take off the run cap and take it in, they can check it for you where you bought the motor. Its not unusual to loose a motor in a year as they work hard in the heat. I have seen them last for years and for just a couple of months. Keep me posted.
Best of luck to you,
Shastalaker7
At the compressor connectors you have a live and a neutral phase. The live usually goes to a ptc relay starting mechanism which you can test with a meter. If you can disconnect the relay and check the windings of the compressor from one pin to the other two it will tell you if the compressor is open circuit. It is more often than not an overload fault.
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