I recently replaced the DLP chip to take care of the white/black dead pixel issue, and it worked perfectly! However, now, the picture is blurry, although it's definitely not missing any pixels. The picture is definitely blurry all around, but it is more pronounced in the lower right area. It's still watchable, but it's like watching SDTV, not HDTV. The input is 1080p from a PlayStation 4 through HDMI. During the repair, I scraped off the old thermal tape on the back of the aluminum heatsink and put on some Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. I also replaced the lamp with a Philips lamp - figured I would do it while I was in there. The chip I used is a 4719-001997 that listed this TV model as a compatible unit. The lamp used was a 915P061010. Please advise? Is something dirty within the TV, or could I have mis-aligned something?
SOURCE: Black Screen with White Randomized Pixels
Not sure...but the inputs (and related circuitry) on Mits are notorious for failing due to weak components. Test to be sure that all inputs are dead? If so...this may not be an easy fix.
SOURCE: I have a 2 year old Mitsubishi WD-73732 - 1080p
It will cost you probably in the area of $700.00 to replace the Light Engine. I don't think it would be a good idea to repair it. DLP sets have been out of production a few years now due to high failure rates of the light engines for all makes and models and the consumer cost for the lamp.
SOURCE: I have white pixels showing
riddic759546,
Sounds like you have a bad optical engine. I have a tip at http://www.fixya.com/support/r4251975-replace_dlp_light_engine which should solve your problem.
Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.
hardrocko
SOURCE: How do I repair white dots/dead pixels on my 3
You have a bad light engine. It is available at encompassparts.com for retail price of $749.10. Call 1-800-638-3328. Consumer not in business could be higher price.
Likely you either forgot to reattach your color wheel ribbon connector, or have it on upside down. It's the tiny ribbon cable behind your circuit board that will come off as you pull the board away from the DLP chip.
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