At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Likely what you have is the three tubes each have a filament--not unlike a light bulb-----someone would have to trace the filament voltage (usually comes from power supply) from source to the three tubes---filament connects to each tube with two connections and is usually 6.3 volts.
Its very unlikely that you have a bad tube in this model..that would be very rare...it may just be the convergence or possibly the fluid in the lenses has clouded up. Both are common issues. Read this and see if it helps http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull
On the board I believe the fuses are marked PS*** . They look like resistors that are sort of tan in color. In most cases if the 115 volt fuse has opened the horizontal output transistor is possibly shorted. I think that was Q7700 and will have a fairly large heat sink attached to it. Check it with an ohm meter in circuit to verify its good or bad.
You need to replace both of the convergence IC's and any bad resistors around them that protect them from damaging the power supply.
This repair can usually be done in the home and takes about an hour; I have done hundreds of them and now is a slow time of year for TV shops; look around if you are not able to do this repair; you can buy the chips on Ebay for less than 15 dollars for a pair plus shipping.
This is a very common problem in projection sets.
If this has helped you give me a vote here as I do this for free. If you have questions or need help:
Over the years of servicing these sets and others for Convergence issues, I have on several times gotten defective Convergence ICs. In your case where a Resistor is now open, (Probably a 1.5 ohm 1/2 watt), I would suspect you had gotten a hold of a defective IC. I would replace them both again. Make sure to use Heat Sink Compound between the ICs and Heat Sink.(Just a thin coating on the metal area) You can get the heat sink compound from Radio Shack. They should also have the Resistor you need.
Good luck,
Skyassoc
There should be a solder in pico fuse(yellow) close to that LED labled E...something. It is most likely open. If so, check to see if there is a blue high voltage capacitor(2kv) in front of the H.output transistor. If yes, replace them both...if no try just replacing the pico fuse.
Your unit uses a Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) for each color.
Since you didn't say that it was a gradual change, I suspect the CRT filament has failed open rather than a slow death of internal emissions.
Considering the very high level of light asked of these CRTs, I am amazed they last as long as they do.
The replacement and almost certain necessity of initial alignment and color balance, this is beyond DIY possibility and is likely going to be fairly expensive.
After 5 years of use, the other CRTs are somewhat (if not a lot) degraded so don't be surprised when a tech advises replacing them all and I think it may not be a whole lot less expensive than replacing the set although looking at the specs for that set indicates it is not obsolete by any means.
My hitachi 57f500a wont turn on i pulled the back off and there are only one green light on and the relay keeps clicking when the relay clicks another green light flickers and the red one come on and goes off.
×